AM Shade
Special
Slab
5 Pitches
50m
Alpine

Originally developed in the ground-up ethic with bolts placed on lead where necessary, this sector offers great introduction to Alpine Rock climbing with an adventurous feel yet not the big commitment of the bigger peaks. The original routes were opened in a mixed gear style and applying 'berg style attitude to stances and so forth. As a result, the first routes tend to climb the easier angled rock (slab) and were not equipped to sport-climbing standards but rather a 'berg style standard with supplementary bolts in places.

Be sure to read each route description for the gear beta as well as to decide its suitability for your experience level.

As a general rule, the steeper the pitch, the better it climbs - there are a host of potential new routes to be explored/opened in a more modern craving manner.

Approach

From The Campsite (2hr):

  • Walk up the Sleeping Beauty Cave valley to Sleeping Beauty Cave.
  • Ascend the grass slope opposite the cave to the base of the wall.

From Sleeping Beauty Cave (10min):

  • Roll out of your sleeping bag
  • Ascend the grass slope directly across from the cave

Descent

Gully Descent (30min):

Walk approximately 100m right (North) toward the valley head, to the gulley which runs parallel to the face. Scramble down this back to the base/cave.

Valley Descent (50min):

Hike rightward (north) along the ridge until able to easily join the valley/stream and follow this back to the base/cave. This is longer time wise but far more pleasant


Descent

Gully Descent (30min):

Walk approximately 100m right (North) toward the valley head, to the gulley which runs parallel to the face. Scramble down this back to the base/cave.

Valley Descent (50min):

Hike rightward (north) along the ridge until able to easily join the valley/stream and follow this back to the base/cave. This is longer time wise but far more pleasant

RELATED POST
5b
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
4c
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
SPONSORS
RELATED POST

Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
Click to see the GPX track.
Requires GAIA GPS App
Google Maps
Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.