A 3 pitch variation to Jack and the Beanstalk, up some superb slabs to the right of JAB.

Southern Friction

4c

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Start 6m right and below JAB. Scramble 15m up the easy (3b) slab keeping left of the vegetated runnel/gulley to start / stance at the base of a boulder which forms the open book of the next pitch.

This approach is sometimes topped/pitched.

Descent

Gully Descent (30min):

Walk approximately 100m right (North) toward the valley head, to the gulley which runs parallel to the face. Scramble down this back to the base/cave.

Valley Descent (50min):

Hike rightward (north) along the ridge until able to easily join the valley/stream and follow this back to the base/cave. This is longer time wise but far more pleasant

Crag Descent:
Sleeping Beauty

Route Description

Gear: 
A light rack + 8 quickdraws. 

  • (4 - 5 cams from 0.5-2)
  • half rack of wires. 
  • the FA used Tri Cams on P3
  • double ropes are recommended but not imperative

    P1 (20m ; 5a):

    • Climb the open book for 3 m till on top of the boulder.
    • From the top of the boulder, gain the slab and move up the slab, tending left.
    • Pass a horizontal rail, past 2 bolts, below a long overlap.
    • Traverse right using the under-cling crack in the overlap
    • Pull up onto the face above on the righthand side of the overlap, keep moving diagonally right past some bolts until in the vegetated
      recess

    P2: (15m ; 4a):

    • Climb the vegetated recess for 10 m, then move slightly left up a face to a ledge.
    • Move 4 m right along the ledge and up though a hole formed by a boulder leaning against the face.
    • Stance just on the other side of the hole.

    P3: (15m ; 4c):

    • Climb onto the boulder and step up onto the slab, passing a bolt.
    • Move right and around a vague buldge onto a pocket filled face
    • Climb the face (excellent) on pockets to a short recess below a wormhole (end of JAB P3) formed by a large boulder against the main wall
    • Move up the recess (tricky) and through the wormhole to stance.

    Continue as for JAB:

    P4 (35m ; 5b):

    • From the stance travers right (past a bolt) on small feet to a tree and then a grass ledge
    • Continue up past the tree to a slab
    • Climb the slab above (bolts) to a large ledge under an overhang

    P5 (30m ; 4a):

    • Traverse easily c15m right past a bolt to the a scoop/runnel
    • Climb c5m up the runnel on the left to a rail (small cams)
    • Cross the narrow fin you’re standing on to gain the runnel proper
    • Climb / Chimney this runnel/scoop to its head (big boulder above)
    • Use good holds on the boulder to move left out of the runnel/scoop to gain the grassy ledge above.

    This pitch feels hard for the grade.

    Find your way to the top of the ridge and then the descent.

    Alternate Description

    Tips & Tricks

    Video

    Drakensberg Grading
    French / South African
    YDS

    D

    E1

    E2

    E3

    F1

    F2

    F3

    G1

    G2

    G3

    H1

    3-

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    3+

    11

    4b

    13

    4a

    12

    4c
    14
    5a
    15
    5b

    16

    5c

    17

    6a

    18

    6a+

    19

    6b

    20

    6b+

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    6c

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    6c+

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    7a

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    7a+

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    5.4

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    5.10a

    5.10b

    5.10c

    5.10d

    5.11a

    5.11b

    5.11c

    5.11d

    5.12a

    5.12b

    5.12c

    5.12d

    5.13a

    5.13b

    5.13c

    5.13d

    5.14a

    5.14b

    5.14c

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    Icons and Symbols

    AM Shade
    Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
    10B | Ch
    Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
    Alpine
    Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
    Ice
    Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
    Sport
    Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
    Sport & Trad
    Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
    Trad
    Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
    2 Pitches
    Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
    Special
    Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
    Standard
    Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
    50m
    Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
    Double
    Typically climbed using half ropes
    Corner
    Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
    Crack Climb
    Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
    Overhang
    Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
    Overhang
    Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
    Powerful
    Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
    Slab
    Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
    Steep
    Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
    Technical
    Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
    Vert
    General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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