At the left hand edge of the rightward leaning slab, where the slab meets the main wall (loose corner / crack), scramble up 8m to a grassy ledge with a small tree on it. Stance here.

Gully Descent (30min):

Walk approximately 100m right (North) toward the valley head, to the gulley which runs parallel to the face. Scramble down this back to the base/cave.

Valley Descent (50min):

Hike rightward (north) along the ridge until able to easily join the valley/stream and follow this back to the base/cave. This is longer time wise but far more pleasant

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Gear: 
‍A light rack + 8 quickdraws. 

• (4 - 5 cams from 0.5-2)
• half rack of wires. 
• the FA used Tri Cams on P3
• double ropes are recommended but not imperative

Start: 

From the lefthand base of the rock, scramble up 10m to a good ledge/platform. 

P1 (47m ; 5a): 

• Climb the ramp, staying within 5m of the corner, for 45m metres. 
• Bolts protect the tricky sections but the natural gear is sparse. 

Stance on the grassy ledge using a piton and small wire.

P2  (20m ; 5a): 

• Climb up the slab above the belay to a bolt, inconveniently placed. 
• Pass the bolt to an overhanging section, move to the left (towards the yellow rock in the corner)
• (A bolt is just over the lip) Pull through the overhang? on rounded holds
• Continue up and over (down) the rock above to a large grassy ledge.

The most convenient stance is next to the big block on the left side of the grassy ledge. There is good gear between the block and the rock you’ve just stepped down. (This position also allows you to see your second.)

P3 (30m ; 5b): 

• Climb easy ground up to an obvious scoop/ledge system running across the face to a bolt
• “Walk” easily 8m right along the ledge/scoop
• A bolt can be seen c15m above, head for this (the bolt out right above the large boulder is Southern Friction)
• From the vague hollow, climb the bulge (bolt mentioned above) using small holds on good rock, to a face
• Climb the face diagonally right to a recess / corner system. A flake can be used to gain the overlap but BEWARE, the flake expands - don’t pull “outward” & gear is more psychological than useful placed behind it.
• Step right on the overlap to gain access to the wormhole
• Crawl through the wormhole to a ledge

The stance is aided by a single bolt + c

hain.

P4 (35m ; 5b):

• From the stance traverse right (past a bolt) on small feet to a tree and then a grass ledge
• Continue up past the tree to a slab
• Climb the slab above (bolts) to a large ledge under an overhang

P5 (30m ; 4a):

• Traverse easily c15m right past a bolt to a scoop/runnel
• Climb c5m up the runnel on the left to a rail (small cams)
• Cross the narrow fin you’re standing on to gain the runnel proper
• Climb / Chimney this runnel/scoop to its head (big boulder above)
• Use good holds on the boulder to move left out of the runnel/scoop to gain the grassy ledge above.

This pitch feels hard for the grade.

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Find your way to the top of the ridge and then the descent.

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