Tristan Firman climbing on the traverse pitch of Angus Lepan, sentinel. 📸 C. Sole

Northern Drakensberg

Big, steep and imposing, The Northern 'Berg is home to the majority of Freestanding Peaks. Alpine Rock Climbing as well as majestic hiking are the main attractions.

Tristan Firman climbing on the traverse pitch of Angus Lepan, sentinel. 📸 C. Sole

Eastern Buttress, Devils Tooth & Inner Tower seen from The Amphitheater. 📸 Trystan Firman

Northern Drakensberg

Big, steep and imposing, The Northern 'Berg is home to the majority of Freestanding Peaks. Alpine Rock Climbing as well as majestic hiking are the main attractions.

Eastern Buttress, Devils Tooth & Inner Tower seen from The Amphitheater. 📸 Trystan Firman

Robyn Johnson enjoying the exposed traverse on the final section of the Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress. 📸 Trystan Firman

Northern Drakensberg

Big, steep and imposing, The Northern 'Berg is home to the majority of Freestanding Peaks. Alpine Rock Climbing as well as majestic hiking are the main attractions.

Robyn Johnson enjoying the exposed traverse on the final section of the Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress. 📸 Trystan Firman

Stretching from Monks Cowl to Sentinel (in the North), The Northern 'Berg (Basalt) Escarpment is littered with Free-Standing Peaks standing off like piers in the ocean. The area has a much bigger and imposing feel to it than The Southern 'Berg, and when approaching or hiking from the KZN side, is a very big undertaking. Contrastingly, the Northern access point, Witsieshoek, provides the easiest access to the Escarpment (Sani Pass not withstanding). As a result The Sentinel see's the highest number of (roped) climbing ascents in The High berg, and the hike up to the top of The Amphitheatre sees the most hiking traffic in The High 'Berg.

Witsieshoek is also a start/end point for The Grand and Mini Hiking Traverses.

Best climbing shoes, harnesses, boulder pads and quickdraws in South Africa

The climbing is all on the Escarpment Basalt (wether on the Escarpment proper, or Free Standing Peaks) which is characterised by being difficult to protect as well as having enormous approaches (Except Sentinel). The general methodology for climbing on The Basalt is to spend a day (possibly 2) hiking in to establish a high camp, from where an Alpine start is still needed in order to climb/return to camp in the daylight. Car-2-Car ascents of the other peaks are rare, but possible.

Mike Cartwright enchanted Sentinel, (Angus Lepan route), Mpunjwana (Standard Route) and The Column (Escarpment Arête route) over 3 days!

The Sentinel, on the other hand, is easily climbed car-2-car in a day and due to being outside of the Ezemvelo National Park, bolting is permitted and there are a handful of multi pitch bolted routes as well as a Via Ferrata (on Beacon Buttress).

Climbing in The High 'berg offers incredible adventure climbing (Alpine Rock), but has a reputation of not being easy to protect (pitons are common), friable in in places and often requiring "climbing" the alpine grass. As a general rule the rock quality improves the harder the route is, this is due to the climbing taking place more on the vertical sections and less in the natural "breaks", chimney's and so forth. A rule of thumb is that anything F2 or harder (fr5 / SA16)) or harder is generally cleaner.

It is worth noting how low the general grades are in pure technical terms, and this should indicate the difficulty in protecting Basalt faces with traditional gear. It is also worth noting that, as mentioned, this is big country with a real Alpine seriousness to it, and you will get full value even at what, on paper, seems "easy" climbs.

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Multi Pitch
Single Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Climbing topo for the North and East faces of Sentinel Peak, Northern Drakensberg.
Overview of Sentinel and Beacon Buttress
Climbing Angus Lepan, Sentinel Peak, Northern Drakensberg. 📸 Trystan Firman

Sentinel Peak

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The most accessible rock climbing in The High Drakensberg, also the only area with fully bolted multi pitch routes, as well as the Berg's hardest free trad route.
45
min
to
3
hours
3000
m ASL
AM Shade
PM Shade
Sport & Trad
Special
Vert
Multi Pitch
Single Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Climbing topo for the Beacon Buttress, Northern Drakensberg
Overview of Sentinel and Beacon Buttress
The exposed top section of the Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress, Drakensberg

Beacon Buttress

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The Northern most section of The Great Escarpment, Beacon Buttress has a few trad routes and a Via Ferrata which is the dominating feature / experience.
45
min
to
hours
3000
m ASL
AM Shade
Special
Vert
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Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Climbing Topo of the North Face of Sentinel Peak, Drakensberg.
Overview of Sentinel peak area

Sentinel East Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Despite its easy access, The East Face of sentinel Peak is significantly more committing than the others. A wild environment, without the hardship of a major approach.
90
min
to
2.0
hrs
3000
m ASL
All Day Shade
AM Shade
All Day Sun
PM Shade
1 Pitch
2 Pitch
3 Pitch
4 Pitch
5 Pitch
6 Pitch
6+ Pitch
Std Rack
Special Gear
50m
60m
70m
80m
Double Rope
Face
Overhang
Powerful
Slab
Technical
Vert
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Robyn Johnson on the final section, Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress. 📸 Trystan Firman
Route Topo of The Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress.

Beacon Buttress North

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The Buttress between The Chain Ladder and Sentinel offers a handful of alpine rock routes and the most wild Via Ferrata
35
min
to
45.0
hrs
3000
m ASL
All Day Shade
AM Shade
All Day Sun
PM Shade
1 Pitch
2 Pitch
3 Pitch
4 Pitch
5 Pitch
6 Pitch
6+ Pitch
Std Rack
Special Gear
50m
60m
70m
80m
Double Rope
Face
Overhang
Powerful
Slab
Technical
Vert
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Climbing Topo of West Face of Sentinel Peak, Drakensberg
Overview of Sentinel peak area

Sentinel West Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The least committing face offering the easiest access via a number of routes, to the summit. Also used as the common descent.
45
min
to
1.0
hrs
3000
m ASL
All Day Shade
AM Shade
All Day Sun
PM Shade
1 Pitch
2 Pitch
3 Pitch
4 Pitch
5 Pitch
6 Pitch
6+ Pitch
Std Rack
Special Gear
50m
60m
70m
80m
Double Rope
Face
Overhang
Powerful
Slab
Technical
Vert
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Climbing Topo of the North Face of Sentinel Peak, Drakensberg.
Overview of Sentinel peak area
Andrew Pedley & Matt Hoffman climbing Surprise Attack 7c+, North Face Sentinel Peak. 📸 Pedley Collection

Sentinel North Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Home of both the most daring of alpine trad routes, and the test-bed for bolt-protected climbs on the gearless Basalt make the The North face of Sentinel Peak both committing and relatively non-committing, depending on the style/route of choice. The easy approach and varied styles make this one of the most visited in the 'berg.
45
min
to
1.0
hrs
3000
m ASL
All Day Shade
AM Shade
All Day Sun
PM Shade
1 Pitch
2 Pitch
3 Pitch
4 Pitch
5 Pitch
6 Pitch
6+ Pitch
Std Rack
Special Gear
50m
60m
70m
80m
Double Rope
Face
Overhang
Powerful
Slab
Technical
Vert
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.