Stretching from Monks Cowl to Sentinel (in the North), The Northern 'Berg (Basalt) Escarpment is littered with Free-Standing Peaks standing off like piers in the ocean. The area has a much bigger and imposing feel to it than The Southern 'Berg, and when approaching or hiking from the KZN side, is a very big undertaking. Contrastingly, the Northern access point, Witsieshoek, provides the easiest access to the Escarpment (Sani Pass not withstanding). As a result The Sentinel see's the highest number of (roped) climbing ascents in The High berg, and the hike up to the top of The Amphitheatre sees the most hiking traffic in The High 'Berg.
Witsieshoek is also a start/end point for The Grand and Mini Hiking Traverses.
The climbing is all on the Escarpment Basalt (wether on the Escarpment proper, or Free Standing Peaks) which is characterised by being difficult to protect as well as having enormous approaches (Except Sentinel). The general methodology for climbing on The Basalt is to spend a day (possibly 2) hiking in to establish a high camp, from where an Alpine start is still needed in order to climb/return to camp in the daylight. Car-2-Car ascents of the other peaks are rare, but possible.
Mike Cartwright enchanted Sentinel, (Angus Lepan route), Mpunjwana (Standard Route) and The Column (Escarpment Arête route) over 3 days!
The Sentinel, on the other hand, is easily climbed car-2-car in a day and due to being outside of the Ezemvelo National Park, bolting is permitted and there are a handful of multi pitch bolted routes as well as a Via Ferrata (on Beacon Buttress).
Climbing in The High 'berg offers incredible adventure climbing (Alpine Rock), but has a reputation of not being easy to protect (pitons are common), friable in in places and often requiring "climbing" the alpine grass. As a general rule the rock quality improves the harder the route is, this is due to the climbing taking place more on the vertical sections and less in the natural "breaks", chimney's and so forth. A rule of thumb is that anything F2 or harder (fr5 / SA16)) or harder is generally cleaner.
It is worth noting how low the general grades are in pure technical terms, and this should indicate the difficulty in protecting Basalt faces with traditional gear. It is also worth noting that, as mentioned, this is big country with a real Alpine seriousness to it, and you will get full value even at what, on paper, seems "easy" climbs.
Sentinel Peak
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Beacon Buttress
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Sentinel East Face
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Beacon Buttress North
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Sentinel West Face
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Sentinel North Face
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