General
Climbing
Key

Extending more than 1000km in length, The Drakensberg Escarpment forms part of The Great Escarpment and runs (roughly) from Rhodes in The Eastern Cape, to Tzaneen in the far North of the country. Spanning 4 provinces, it is the section which borders Lesotho which we refer to as The Drakensberg in a mountaineering sense. This section forms the Western border of Kwa Zulu Natal and Lesotho rising from c1700m above sea level to Southern Africa's highest point Thabana Ntlenyana (3,482m).

The Drakensberg (in our definition) is composed of a thick layer of Basalt which sits atop the youngest of the Karoo Supergroup sediments, the Clarens sandstone.

From a climbing point of view, both the Basalt and Sandstone in The Drakensberg do not lend themselves to climbing (in the same way The Cederberg Does) - The Basalt faces are mostly gear-less and the Sandstone often undercut while also not being generally accepting of gear.

The lightest full-feature harness on the continentThe lightest full-feature harness on the continent
Unlike any other cam on the market. Each cam lobe operates separately allowing for single stem loadingUnlike any other cam on the market. Each cam lobe operates separately allowing for single stem loading

However, the routes that do exist offer exceptional adventure climbing, often to the Peak Summits - the climbing, grade wise, generally not hard but certainly wild. Good mountain sense is either brought with you, or gained as a result of climbing in The Berg!

Most of the area is governed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and is a National Park (subject to General National Park Rules unless explicitly noted differently in the park areas.

The presiding ethic is Trad gear with pitons being accepted. A bolting policy exists which, essentially, limits bolts to ramp anchors or for protection of sections not protectable by traditional methods - it is generally accepted as a no-bolting region with few exceptions and all placed on lead.

Seasons:

These are big mountains and climbers and hikers should be prepared to encounter severe weather conditions on occasion. In general the prevailing wind on The Escarpment is West-East and is quite consistently present. Due to the height difference between the Escarpment (c3000m) and the KZN foothills (c1200m), the wind on the escarpment can reach upwards of 150kmph and this should be the foremost thought when pitching a tent preventatively.

On the rare still days, the silence is deafening due to the vastness up there!  

Summer (Nov-March):

Coastal (0m-1000m asl):

Warm day time temps often culminating in spectacular thunderstorms, summer is not the best climbing season but is a good hiking season. The high Summer Rainfall coupled with the alpine nature of routes/peaks means that Summer often has water-logged pitches or a high probability of rain during the climb where you are exposed to the elements.

The exception being the Harrismith Area which features multi-pitch sport routes which are not as difficult to retreat from.

Autumn  (Apr-May):

Warm day time temps and cooler nights, Autumn is the best season for Alpine Rock routes in The Drakensberg. There is abundant water following the summer rains, the routes are dry and the potential for being caught in a storm while on a route is far reduced (particularly the later it is in the season). Temps are still generally warm enough for pleasant rock climbing.

Winter (Jun-Aug):

The premium season for winter climbing in South Africa. The ice falls are generally in condition from early June to mid August (better in July). The winter snow gullies and Waterfall Ice routes tend to face South and retain their condition. Alpine Rock routes not facing North will be very cold.

Spring (Sept - Nov):

The second best season for Alpine Rock Climbing in The Drakensberg. August can be VERY windy with minimal water (and resultant high wild-fire danger), but otherwise very similar to Autumn.

General Info:

Each area is managed by its own area manager and team of conservationists from Ezemvelo. There is a Search & Rescue register which is mandatory to sign in / out so that S&R are able to track hikers and climbers (and have a good idea of where to look for you if you do not return).

There are a multitude of caves which serve as easy shelter both on the "Little Berg" (1600m-2300m) and "High Berg" (>2300m) which are often preferred as overnight venue's.

Water is plentiful and perfectly good to drink without treatment.

The Northern sections of The Drakensberg can be as easily accessed from Johannesburg.

Multi Pitch
Tristan Firman climbing pitch 4 of Jack and The Beanstalk, Garden Castle. Photo: Robyn Johnson.
Striking rock formations above Sleeping Beauty Cave, Garden Castle
Garden Castle in the Southern Drakensberg offers hiking & climbing at a slightly easier level to the Northern Drakensberg.

Southern Drakensberg

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Friendly and picturesque, the area is less steep and intimidating than the Northern 'Berg and offers generally easy access to mountaineering with a little climbing.
60
min
-
8
hr
3300
m ASL
Multi Pitch
Tristan Firman climbing on the traverse pitch of Angus Lepan, sentinel. 📸 C. Sole
Eastern Buttress, Devils Tooth & Inner Tower seen from The Amphitheater. 📸 Trystan Firman
Robyn Johnson enjoying the exposed traverse on the final section of the Via Ferrata, Beacon Buttress. 📸 Trystan Firman

Northern Drakensberg

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Big, steep and imposing, The Northern 'Berg is home to the majority of Freestanding Peaks. Alpine Rock Climbing as well as majestic hiking are the main attractions.
60
min
-
8
hr
3300
m ASL
The lightest full-feature harness on the continentThe lightest full-feature harness on the continent
La Sportiva TX 4 approach shoes, your Italian connection on the Via FerrataLa Sportiva TX 4 approach shoes, your Italian connection on the Via Ferrata
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.