Waterval Boven

SA's largest sport climbing venue hosting over 950 routes in a concentrated area. Hard quartzitic orange sandstone towers over lush indigenous forested valleys with tons of wildlife. There is a large variety of climbing from slab to roof and everything in between, with grades ranging from 4 to 8c. Most routes are technical face climbing requiring solid footwork and steely fingers. Crag bases are great and walk-ins are a breeze.

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Waterval Boven (officially renamed Emgwenya) is widely considered South Africa’s premier sport climbing destination, boasting over 700 exceptionally high-quality bolted routes. The area is world-renowned for its vertical to gently overhanging, bullet-hard orange quartzite/sandstone cliffs, offering scenic mountain backdrops and world-class endurance lines.

The Rock and Style: The rock is a beautiful, highly friction-rich quartzite. Routes are typically long, ranging from 25 to 40 meters on single pitches.
Grades for Everyone: Routes span a massive range, accommodating all capabilities, from beginner-friendly tracks up to elite testpieces grading up to 8c / 34 French. [2, 3]
Key Sectors: Popular areas include the Wonderland Crags, The Superbowl (famous for world-class lines like Snapdragon), The Restaurant Crags, and the iconic Waterfall Crags where you can climb adjacent to a roaring waterfall.
‍Transportation: The easiest way to reach the area is to fly into Johannesburg (O.R. Tambo International Airport) and rent a vehicle. While a standard sedan can manage, renting a higher-clearance vehicle is highly recommended to easily navigate the heavily potholed dirt roads leading up to the campsites and crags. Alternatively, budget bus options like the Lowveld Link provide standard daily drops near the town.

Guidebooks & Gear: For physical gear, rentals, or up-to-date route information, visit Gustav at Roc 'n Rope Adventures, a highly trusted climbing hub located right in the town center.
Permits: Climbing access to certain private parcels (such as Wonderland) requires a daily permit.

Seasons:

The Dry Season (April to October): This is considered the optimal window. Winter offers perfectly crisp, blue-sky climbing days with pleasant midday temperatures. However, because the plateau sits high up, nights can plunge below freezing—make sure to pack a thick down jacket!
The Wet Season (November to March): Summer brings heavy afternoon thunderstorms and brief downpours. However, because most crags face east or southeast, they slip into the shade by midday. The rock dries rapidly, meaning you can still comfortably climb year-round if you manage your timing.

Single Pitch

The Mayhem Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

One of the wilder climbing areas in Waterval Boven. It features a deep, unspoiled valley - and no cellphone signal

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1500

m ASL

Sport

50m

PM Shade

Single Pitch

Restaurant Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Were it all started. Some of the finest technical steep sport climbing in South Africa. Easy access, great climbing.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1480

m ASL

PM Shade

Sport

Single Pitch

60m

Steep

Technical

The Island Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

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Single Pitch

Nitro on the Send of Pit Fighter. Photo: Trystan Firman

Candice Bagley on the classic Lotters Desire. Photo: Trystan Firman

Wonderland Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Probably the most popular Sub Area currently due to the high quality, safety and ease of access.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Sport

Single Pitch

Sport Valley

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Close to Town and with a selection of smaller (width) crags ideal for the beginner to intermediate climber.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1500

m ASL

Single Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch

Topping out at the He Man crag. Photo: Trystan Firman

Triple Tier Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A slightly wilder feel than is the norm in Boven. Besides hosting some excellent routes with an air of exploration, Triple Tier also boasts some of the few multi pitch climbs in the Area.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1440

m ASL

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Hallucinogen

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

By far the most popular crag in the area - ideal for the beginner with a number of great options for the not-so-beginner too!

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1600

m ASL

Single Pitch

Little Red Wall

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A stunning red face with some technical, mid-range, vert climbing.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Disciple Wall

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A gorgeous, dead vertical vall with long, sustained climbing.

min

0.5

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

God No!

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A big crag with bigger routes! Long test-pieces up one of the baddest walls in SA.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Pandemic Crag

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Easily accessable lower grade climbs.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Rubiks Cube

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A large leaning boulder with a handful of routes that are a bit of a handful. Unleash your inner boulderer!

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Grunt

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A slabby crag home to some of Boven's most classic low end climbs

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Malaria Area

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Face climbing in the forest.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Left side of The Library when walking down the gully.

The Library

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Brilliant beginner and moderate face climbing in beautiful, natural architecture.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Single Pitch

Jack's Playground

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Shorter lines great for beginner climbers with a scenic, wilder setting.

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

m ASL

Triple Tier Crags

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

For the more adventurous at heart with magical scenery as well!

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1410

m ASL

Ebony Towers

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Many routes were originally opened on Trad. Longer routes on the left have midway anchors for training or kids top-roping

min

VIEW GPS TRACK

1440

m ASL

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

km from

1500

m ASL

Restaurant Crags

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

355

km from

Johannesburg

1480

m ASL

The Island Crags

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

km from

m ASL

Wonderland Crags

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

km from

Johannesburg

m ASL

Sport Valley

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

km from

1500

m ASL

Triple Tier Crags

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1-3 Hour

Half Day

Full Day

Multi Day

km from

1440

m ASL

Trail

Distance

Elevation

Duration

Grade

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GAIA GPS

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Google Maps

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AM Shade

Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade

Trad route with chains

10B | Ch

Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)

Alpine

Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )

Ice

Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills

Sport

Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES

Sport & Trad

Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles

Trad

Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties

2 Pitches

Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route

Special

Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA

Standard

Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.

50m

Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.

Double

Typically climbed using half ropes

Corner

Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.

Crack Climb

Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.

Face

Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.

Overhang

Overhanging, usually involving roofs.

Powerful

Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.

Slab

Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.

Steep

Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y

Technical

Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.

Vert

General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

A bold lead

A bold lead with potentially serious consequences (including a ground fall) to falling off.

Crime

Beware of high incidence of crime

Exposed Sections

Beware of exposed sections

Flooding

Be ware of localised flooding and swollen rivers & river crossings

Highball

Warning - Highball boulder

Lightning

Beware thunderstorms and lightning

Scramble Sections

Sections involve scrambling and may require a rope

Different Start & End Point

The starting and ending points for this adventure are at different locations and may require seperate transport.

Water Shortage

Water can be scarce, be sure to carry sufficient.

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Seasons:

Filter by climbing genre

The Mayhem Crags

Restaurant Crags

The Island Crags

Wonderland Crags

Sport Valley

Triple Tier Crags

Hallucinogen

Little Red Wall

Disciple Wall

God No!

Pandemic Crag

Rubiks Cube

Grunt

Malaria Area

The Library

Jack's Playground

Triple Tier Crags

Ebony Towers

The Mayhem Crags

Restaurant Crags

The Island Crags

Wonderland Crags

Sport Valley

Triple Tier Crags

Trail

Distance

Elevation

Duration

Grade

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