AM Shade
Trad
3 Pitches
Standard
50m
Vert

Approach

Historically, this sector was accessed via a path up plastic steps 100m past the second bench on the Circular Route. The path zig-zags up the slope before reaching the ruins of an old hut (a concrete slab, building debris and four pillars). However, the steps have since been burnt and eroded and access to the path blocked. If the access is still found restricted, please respect this. It is also possible to access the sector the from the other side via the Circular Route. You may have to walk off path.

From the ruin, two options present themselves: continuing straight up the slope on a faint path and then traversing left below the first continuous rock band to round the southern ridge takes one to the central area of Wally's cave.

From the cave itself, continue to traverse the western slopes to gain the left area. Alternatively, follow a path that traverses the slopes to the right from the ruin. This path climbs gently to reach the ledge above Wally's Cave level. It is from this ledge that most of the single-pitch routes in the right-hand area of the sector begin.

It is also possible to reach this ledge from the staples/chains further up the Circular Route: at the chains follow an old path south east down the slope to some older, disused chains. Follow these down to the above-mentioned ledge. Near the southern end of the ledge plenty of large blocks provide secure anchors to abseil to the level of the cave.

Approach to Lionheart and Roaring Lion:

These routes start from the ledge near the top of Two Girls and a Guy. An alternative approach is to follow the tea-cave traverse to its southernmost end, past the starts of all the routes in the Clifton Sector. Move across onto a blocky ledge and scramble down on the the south side of this to a lower sloping and vegetated ledge. Follow the ledge right, past a huge overhang above some old stone walling built into a wide horizontal crack low down in the rock face. The routes start to the right of this feature.

Descent

For most climbs the easiest descent is to locate the Circular Route and to follow this to the top of the second pitch of SE Arete. Scramble down the second pitch of SE Arete to the ledge above Wally's Cave. From here a short abseil from blocks near the southern end of the ledge or scrambling down the first pitch of SE Arete gains the level near Wally's Cave. For the single pitch routes in the right hand area of the sector it may be easier to abseil from the anchors above the prominent nose that Kalashnikov, Power Struggle and Cold War top out on.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.