Climbing Topo for Utopia Sector, Monteseel. © Peak High

Monteseel Western Buttress
»
Utopia Sector - Monteseel
Sport & Trad
Single Pitch
2 Pitches
Standard
50m
Double
Technical
Steep
PM Shade
General
Climbing
Beta

The crag most prominently visible from the highway and home to one of the most climbed multi-pitches (Utopia) in the area. Justifiably a very popular sector with relatively easy access and high quality routes.

Approach

Most climbs are reached by abseiling from bolted chains east of the start of Utopia. This abseil is marked by a small cairn and a Mountain Rescue notice glued onto the rock. Abseil 15m onto a prominent "island" abutting onto the cliff. This abseil descends the route of Morsel described below, and gives access to Highway for Fools, Utopia and all the way to RubberArm. From Hades to Silver and Gold, improvised abseils to each start need to be set up.

Descent

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Highway for Fools
HFF
4c
4c
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Boulder
Morsel
ML_
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Boulder
Eff Six
EFS
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Abstentia
AA_
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No Name
NN_
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Utopia
UA_
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Rubber Arm
RA_
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Cardiac Arrest
CA_
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Hades
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The Kakamas Cling
TKC
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Boulder
Pipsqueak
PSQ
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Trad
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Boulder
Land of Nod
LON
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Boulder
Dance the Instinct
DI_
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Boulder
Clematis
CS_
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Trad
Single Pitch
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Boulder
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.