Waterval Boven

South Africa's premier Sport Climbing destination.

Candice Bagley making the stretch on the classic Lotters Desire, Superbowl - photo: Trystan Firman

General
Climbing
Key

SA's largest sport climbing venue hosting over 950 routes in a concentrated area. Hard quartzitic orange sandstone towers over lush indigenous forested valleys with tons of wildlife. There is a large variety of climbing from slab to roof and everything in between, with grades ranging from 4 to 8c. Most routes are technical face climbing requiring solid footwork and steely fingers. Crag bases are great and walk-ins are a breeze.

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The Mayhem Crags

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL

Restaurant Crags

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL

Sport Valley

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Needs info
min
-
hr
m ASL
Single & Multi Pitch

The Time Bomb Block Sector

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Superb venue to test those extra skills like abseiling, hanging-stances as well as your tolerance for exposure.
15
min
-
hr
1410
m ASL
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The Island Crags

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL
Single Pitch
Nitro on the Send of Pit Fighter. Photo: Trystan Firman
Candice Bagley on the classic Lotters Desire. Photo: Trystan Firman

Wonderland Crags

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Probably the most popular Sub Area currently due to the high quality, safety and ease of access.
5
min
-
1
hr
m ASL
Single Pitch
Learning the ropes at Flying is Fun

Sport Valley

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Close to Town and with a selection of smaller (width) crags ideal for the beginner to intermediate climber.
20
min
-
1
hr
1500
m ASL
Single & Multi Pitch
Topping out at the He Man crag. Photo: Trystan Firman

Triple Tier Crags

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A slightly wilder feel than is the norm in Boven. Besides hosting some excellent routes with an air of exploration, Triple Tier also boasts some of the few multi pitch climbs in the Area.
20
min
-
1
hr
1440
m ASL
Multi Pitch

He-Man Sector

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Superb venue to test those extra skills like abseiling, hanging-stances as well as your tolerance for exposure.
15
min
-
hr
1410
m ASL
Single & Multi Pitch
Boboon Buttress Topo, left
Boboon Buttress Topo, left

Baboon Buttress

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A variety of easy and intermediate grade climbs of mixed quality, some of which stay dry even during very heavy rain.
10
min
-
hr
1600
m ASL

Last Crag of the Century

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Where some of the most classic climbs and photos are from
18
min
-
hr
m ASL

Ivory Towers

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Classic technical Boven climbing with a Montagu tinge to the rock type/feel. Tall with an airy feel on some of the routes.
10
min
-
hr
1440
m ASL

The Covern

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A number of superbly technical climbs can be found here.
15
min
-
hr
1440
m ASL

The Pasture

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL

Flying Is Fun

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The name offers a hint: FUN. A fun crag of moderate-easy climbs ideal for fun and beginners
20
min
-
hr
1440
m ASL

The Other Side

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL

Never Never Land

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
min
-
hr
m ASL
Single Pitch

Gaper

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Home to Gaper Buttress and Gaper Face, some of the earliest climbing in Boven!
5
min
-
0.5
hr
1493
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Restaurant

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
One of the cleanest walls in Boven sporting great middle of the range routes.
5
min
-
0.5
hr
1490
m ASL

The Gym

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Down by the water, some fun climbs but mostly short. Great on a hot day if you feel like a swim.
10
min
-
hr
1410
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Right Wing

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Come here for some harder lines or to bag a project!
25
min
-
hr
1640
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Theatre

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Is it possible that every climb at a crag is a classic? You can't go wrong with a day at The Theatre
20
min
-
hr
1640
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Left Wing

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A quieter Boven crag with great vert walls and a wilder setting.
20
min
-
hr
1640
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Superbowl

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A big crag with quality routes between 6b+ and 8b+, home to the classics Snapdragon and Lotter's Desire
min
-
hr
m ASL
Single Pitch

Reunion Wall

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A smaller vert crag that usually spends most of its time in the sun.
min
-
hr
m ASL
Single Pitch

The Breakfast Crag

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A somewhat hidden crag sporting some beginner friendly lines.
min
-
hr
m ASL

Hallucinogen

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
By far the most popular crag in the area - ideal for the beginner with a number of great options for the not-so-beginner too!
15
min
-
hr
1600
m ASL
Single Pitch

Little Red Wall

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A stunning red face with some technical, mid-range, vert climbing.
20
min
-
hr
m ASL
RELATED POSTS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.