Approaching from the water point on the right side of the south face of the Spout, follow a series of ledges to the left, through and over large blocks to a broad flat ledge with a prominent brown recess about 40 meters above (crux). From the left-hand side of this ledge, scramble up 10 meters to a higher ledge.

The original route did climb some pitches below this level, but they are rather scrappy and difficult to find.

1. 20m (6b+): From the extreme right-hand edge of the ledge, climb straight up for 12 meters until able to traverse right before climbing up to a ledge. Move to the right and belay on top of big blocks.

2. 25m (7a): From the extreme left-hand edge of the blocks climb the recess to the overhang (#2 Friend). At the roof traverse slightly right and pull through to the recess above. Continue up past the eagle's nest to belay amongst blocks on the left.

3. 5m (5c): Move left, then climb the overhanging face to a ledge. Oscillation is just to the left. Walk right for 40 meters until the ledge peters out at a prominent block below a rightward tending recess.

4. 45m (6c): Climb the overhanging crack past some interesting flakes until a jammed block helps you gain a ledge. Continue up easier rock to belay below a roof.

5. 40m (6c): Climb straight up past a peg, then continue more easily to the top

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