AM Shade
PM Shade
Trad

Access

Permits are required to climb here and can be obtained at capenature.co.za.

Aspect and Weather

Shade in the morning or afternoon, depending on the sector. Routes get wet when it rains.

Climbing

The Spout offers a huge variety of climbing. Everything from an easy (but very exposed) scramble, which is used as a descent, to test pieces of various climbing eras. Oscillation or Danger Mouse are prime examples of prized ascents.

The multi pitch routes on The Spout have a big feel.

Best performance climbing shoes in South Africa available at Vertigo Gear

Approach

Descent:

From the summit of the Spout walk in a westerly direction (towards Algeria). Keep a lookout for a little rock formation on the skyline resembling two birds kissing and

head for this. Just before you reach the love birds, drop down to a lower level and approach the edge immediately on the right-hand side of a huge smoothish

block. Drop down here (exposed) and follow cairns down the Descent Route.

Note 1: This descent route is fairly complex and exposed and it is advisable to check it out before descending it.

Note 2: As one reaches the shoulder before the long traverse left it is possible to do one abseil to the ground. Move out on the shoulder and look for a suitable horn.

Descent

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Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options

The Spout - East Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The left side of the big broken wall rising up above the nek
180
min
-
5.0
hr
1903
m ASL
PM Shade
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options

Solitaire Wall

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
A short, impressive wall below the Spout's East Face
180
min
-
5.0
hr
1903
m ASL
PM Shade
Trad
Single Pitch
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options

The Spout - North Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The big broken wall rising up above the nek above and to the left of Spout Cave
180
min
-
5.0
hr
1903
m ASL
No Shade
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options

The Spout - West Face

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The wall around the corner, to the right of Spout Cave
min
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hr
m ASL
AM Shade
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options

The Spout - South Face

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20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
4b
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
5c
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.