Descent is by single abseil
The feature of the route is the smooth brown open book below the massive overhangs guarding the top of the right-hand buttress at the entrance to the Gully Route. The first pitch has a slightly contrived start, so as to be independent of Short 'n Sweet, but it affords exciting climbing.
Start three meters to the right of the recess on Short 'n Sweet.
1. 35m (6b): Climb a shallow recess to steep grey rock, which is followed diagonally leftwards. Continue up and to the left, to a stance beneath the open book.
2. 15m (6b+): Climb the open book, traverse to the left and move up to a ledge beneath a long overhang.
3. 15m (5c): Climb the crack on the right via two overhangs to the top.
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