Start about 30 meters to the left of the bottom of the Central Direct break.

1.   25m (4a): Climb the inviting grey, juggy break to a ledge. Belay to the right.

2.   45m (3+): Traverse right over some blocks until you reach the main break of the Central Direct route. Step across the gap and move up to the ledge. Continue along the ledge and move up to a stance.

3.   45m (4b): Move up and left to stand on top of a block. Step awkwardly onto the face, then move leftwards and up to the long roof. Traverse around the corner and continue leftwards to the start of a chimney break.

4.   35m (4a): Climb into the chimney and up the back of it, through the widest part, to exit on top of a chockstone. Continue up to a broad ledge. Cross the ledge and climb the obvious layback-type crack to the next ledge. Traverse about 25 meters to the left to the start of the next pitch.

5.   12m (4a): Make an awkward start, then climb diagonally up, past an old ring piton, to another very broad ledge. Traverse along this ledge for 50 meters to the start of the next pitch.

6.   35m (4b): Climb easily up to and on top of a finger of rock. Step across and move right to a deep crack/break. Continue more or less straight up to the top.

Note: Mamacos's variation to this pitch steps left off the finger of rock and then climbs to the top (5a).

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