South-East Arête

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FFA:
Unknown (please contact us if you know)
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Descent from the summit is easiest via the Standard route or rappelling MCM.

Retreat from the face is improbably complex without a pre-installed rope on the approach rappel.

Crag Descent:
Sentinel East Face
Sector Descent:

Route Description

Note: The traditional routes in The Drakensberg are still graded using the "old" system. As with routes in The Alps this is regarded as conveying more information precisely because it is more vague than modern technical rock grades. The grade chart on the Grade Tab gives an indication of the technical equivalence.

From the base of SE Arête:

  1. 40m (F2): Move up and right of the arete, then climb to the left to a comfortable but sloping stance.
  2. 40m (F3, A2): Climb cracks above the stance, then move left onto the south side of the ridge and follow pegs for aid to a small stance.
  3. 40m (F3, A2): Climb up a groove to a triangular overhang. Using pitons for aid, climb through the roof, then move out to the right and up onto a large level shoulder area of the ridge.
  4. 50m G1: Follow the only break above, then after 10 metres traverse right to under a large block. Climb up to the right of the block (crux), then continue diagonally to the left lo a comfortable stance and the base of a large overhang that blocks the route.
  5. 30m (E): Traverse to the right along a break to a grassy stance below a rounded face.
  6. 40m (F2): Climb the face, heading slightly left, past a ledge, then on to a bowel-loosening stance on the ridge.
  7. 30m (F3): Climb the open book to the right of the ridge on poor rock and continue to the left more easily onto the arete. Follow this to the summit.

Originally opened at G1 A2, the individual moves were freed but not climbed clean, by Gerald Camp & Richard Benhe.

Pegs and hammer are still considered useful additions to the rack given the difficult nature of retreat meaning it wise to err on the side of too much rack than too little. Pegs will offer additional options to a standard rock rack which may prove useful.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Useful notes:

  • Pitons and hammer
  • Leave a rope in place on the approach abseil

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

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4c
14
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5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

Useful notes:

  • Pitons and hammer
  • Leave a rope in place on the approach abseil
No items found.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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