One of the best routes of its grade- anywhere! ' ... rapidly becoming the test piece for modern hardmen'. Cheesmond 50 Selected Routes 1978.

Roulette

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FA:
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1969
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

From the Staircase Ledge. Ten metres left of the Staircase pitch there are large blocks on the ground.

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Staircase Ledge

Route Description

1. 23m 16': Climb a short crack and continue up the face, then diagonally left to the layback crack in the corner. Climb this to stance in a niche.

2. 20m '20': Step down and rail left along the handrail. Reach up to a higher rail halfway along and continue railing left. (It is larger than a # 4 'friend' towards the end but the holds are good). Stance on the triangular ledge on the corner.

Many a leader has got to the end of the rail, totally pumped, and still managed to drag them­ selves onto the ledge.

3. 10m '20': Climb the steep zig-zag crack above. Exit onto a small platform on the right.

4. 23m '21': Ascend the shallow scoop on the right to the overhang (two pegs). Move through the overhang and when the angle relents, traverse right. Descend slightly right¬¨‚↠wards under a small roof to reach a steep broken crack. Ascend this and climb up to a niche and peg belay.

5.  40m '16': Traverse6m right to a crack. Climb this until it peters out. Traverse left to a grassy trough, move up and to the left to finish up a funnel.

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Alternate Description

Note: Most parties do the first three pitches then stepdown and left from the stance and continue via Jacob's Ladder to the top (30m '17').

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Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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