Oscillation

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FFA:
Ed February, Tinie Versfeld 1983
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
The Spout
Sector Descent:
The Spout - South Face

Route Description

The classic hard route on the south face of the Spout. Start approximately 10 meters to the right of The Spout '64 Route.

1. 25m (6b+): Start on a loose flake and move up to the right under a small overhang to where an awkward layback move gives access to a poised position in the recess above. Traverse to the right on sloping grips for a few meters until it becomes possible to move up, then do a delicate move to the right. Continue up to a smooth recessed face. Move up to the left past a very dubious bolt, then move up delicately to the ledge above.

2. 25m (4c): Traverse to the right and move up an obvious nose until two recesses are reached. Climb either to a ledge above. Follow a recess to another ledge, then traverse to the left on to blocks.

3. 25m (6b): Traverse to the left on to the end of the blocks and move up through a bulge to hanging flakes. Traverse to the right and pull up on the last flake to reach a handrail. Traverse to the right under the ceiling to a peg and pull through to the stance above. Ignore a peg further to the right.

4. 22m (5a): Move up the recess at the back of the stance. A series of moves forces one out to the left and up to a big traverse ledge. Traverse to the right and up on to some large blocks for approximately 35 meters.

5. 27m (5c): Move up through an overhanging section and traverse diagonally left to a stance. Move up a recess and traverse out left, to mantelshelf onto a small ledge. Traverse right and up to a good ledge. You are now on the left-hand corner of the prominent white nose visible from below.

6. 42m (6b+): Move up a corner until if becomes possible to traverse seven meters to the right to a ledge one-third of the way across the nose. Traverse back to the left into the corner and make some tricky moves up to a stance. Climb a face to a 'dassie' traverse and continue to the right to a large stance on the corner overlooking the prominent nose.

Note: It is possible to take a diagonal line across the white nose after the seven meter traverse. This skips out the tricky moves.

7. 30m (6a+): Move up onto a flake on the corner above. Difficult moves lead to a shallow face, then a handrail. Move up to a ledge. Move right and take the line of least resistance to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

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7a

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7a+

25

7b

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7c+

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8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

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8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

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5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

No items found.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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