A bold and seldom repeated route worthy of more attention!

North-East Face

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FFA:
Gerald Camp & Pete Janshek 1999
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Begin as for the Chain Ladder then to the right and around into a small gulley below the North Face of Sentinel Peak. Scramble up to the right hand side of the face at the base of the obvious corner system.

Descent

Descend

  • rappel MCM or
  • descend the standard route
Crag Descent:
Sentinel North Face
Sector Descent:

Route Description

Note: The traditional routes in The Drakensberg are still graded using the "old" system. As with routes in The Alps this is regarded as conveying more information precisely because it is more vague than modern technical rock grades. The grade chart on the Grade Tab gives an indication of the technical equivalence.

Start: In the right-most crack of the comer/crack system on the right.

  1. 45m F2: Climb easily up to a small overhang. and directly through this to the back of the recess.
  2. 40m G2: Climb the wide crack in the large recess to a narrow chimney. Move left onto the face and up 2 metres (crux) to a diagonal grass line which provides easy climbing to a stance above the chimney. (can be climbed at G1/A0)
  3. 35m E2: Scramble up and left to below an overhang with a short, steep recess to its right.
  4. 25m F3: Climb around the overhang on the left (crux), then move to the right until a line up towards the left leads to a very steep section of rock that obviously contains some tricks.
  5. 35m G1: Move to the right and then up, moving gradually to the right as you ascend, avoiding a loose flake high up on the right. The small ledge moving back towards the crack is a cul-de-sac, so avoid this and instead move up and then to right. From here a ramp leads up diagonally to the left to a platform.
  6. 45m F2: Move back into the recess and climb through a small overhanging section. Continue up, then traverse left along an obvious line, before moving back right to the base of the final chimney.
  7. 12m E3: Climb the chimney to the top.

Alternate Description

Pitch 2: can be reduced to G1/A0

Pitch 6:
A direct variation can also be climbed, instead of moving out left and back right.

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

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6b

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6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

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7a+

25

7b

26

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27

7c

28

7c+

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8a

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8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

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35

8c

34

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5.10a

5.10b

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5.10d

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5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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