Lemon

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
Tafelberg Main Wall
Sector Descent:
Maiden's Sector

Route Description

The route starts in Welbedacht Crack

Start as for lce Tea.

1.   15m (4c): At the base of the chimney proper on Welbedacht Crack, step off from the right-hand of two large beacons. Move up the right-hand wall to a grassy stance. On the right, a traverse line leads out to the right under a bulging rib with honey-comb holes in it. Traverse/walk about 20m to the right, past a red recess, then via an exposed short section to a brown face looking like a jigsaw puzzle of grips.

2.   15m (4a): Climb up in the corner past a trough behind a big grip on the left-hand wall, then move up the crack to the top.

3.   5m (4a): Over to the right, before a recess/crack line on Mothers is reached, climb a short vertical wall to ledge under the big overhang.

4.   21m (4b): Traverse out to the left onto an undercut face at the lower of two levels. (The one higher up under the overhangs is initially easier, but then leads to a nasty handrail.) At the end, out of sight from the ledge, there is a standing platform below the 'Lemon Squeeze' crack. (Strip off all gear here, including helmets, and arrange to have it hauled up late.) Climbers with a deep chest will find this pitch thrutchy, whilst really large individuals will not get up it. Move up into the crack, which is climbed by moving out to the left. Continue up the ridge on the right to a platform stance.

5.   15m (4a): Climb up the right-hand of two parallel cracks in the corner by jamming and bridging, until forced to move into the left-hand one higher up. Climb to below a bulge and traverse to the right for a few meters, then climb up to a ledge.

6.   16m (3+): Traverse to the left to an awkward crack on the far side of a block. Pull up into it, then continue diagonally up to the right. Make a short, tricky move onto the face above, which leads to the top.

Alternate Description

For a possible (much harder) first pitch to the right.  Start from a huge block and step across onto a short dassie ledge. From there an awkward move to stand up leads to a traverse to the right and a very steep face leading up to the long ledge running out from the depths of Welbedacht Crack.

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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