Slightly harder than the original, but with consistently better climbing with better movement.
If your rope-work and skill level permits, combine P1&P2 and P3&P4.

Rather than starting in the gully, by the tree, start at the extreme left edge of The Staircase Ledge (left edge beneath Jeopardy wall)

1. 12m '14': Climb the left arête/face for 5m, step left into the white shallow recess (gear) and then directly up to the ledge under a small roof (stepping left from the cavern).

‍2. 20m '16': Gain the overhanging crack above by rounding the small roof on the left (high-step off the ledge) and then stepping back right once immediately above the belay.

• Continue up the crack, to the rail
• Move right 3m along the rail
• Then up the featured face to the main rail (there is a good hanging stance with an obvious sling-wrap as 1 point in front of you)

3. 15m ‘16’: The classic pitch. 

• Rail right until near the edge, use a hidden letterbox side-pull to gain the upper vertical crack system
• Follow this to a narrow ledge, belaying in the “bucket”

4. 15m ‘18’: From the stance go straight up face 

• on small holds to the overlap (10m)
• step left to gain the exit crack
• Belay on the edge of the ledge

5. Scramble to the top.

Gallery Info:

1. Looking down on the 1st pitch (direct start) from the "small overhang stance"
2. Looking down on the direct variation gaining the "main rail hanging stance"
3. Looking onto the leader gaining the crack-system after the "Main Traverse"