In Search of the Lost Chord

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
Tafelberg Main Wall
Sector Descent:
Maiden's Sector

Route Description

Starts in the first big corner just to the right of the low overhang to the right of Maiden's Prayer.

1.   40m (6b+): Pull into the undercut corner and climb the flared recess above. Move out to the right, using a horizontal crack, then move up to an excellent horizontal crack. Move to the left into the upper part of the flared crack and climb up to the roof to traverse left to a small ledge. Continue traversing until able to move up to a higher level and then further to the left onto the lip. Move up and around to belay on the left-hand side of a large detached column.

Note: A better variation would be to start on Maiden's Prayer and traverse in after the first pitch to join Lost Chord higher up. This would skip out the desperate start and keep the route at a much friendlier grade.

3.   46m (4b): This pitch can be split. Traverse to the left to a black undercut face and climb it on small incut holds, after which it is possible to move easily to the left under an overhang. Continue to the left, moving slightly down at one point, until just before an obvious watercourse is reached. Climb out and up to the right to a bottomless crack/chimney, which is climbed on huge jugs to a large ledge. Scramble and walk to the right to the base of the huge curved amphitheater below a big overhang mentioned in Maiden Voyage's description.

4.   30m (4c): Climb the obvious recess to the right of Voyage's break, then out onto the face on the right. Continue up, bearing slightly right, to the ledge above.

5.   45m (5c): Move slightly to the right from the top of the previous pitch and up into a horizontal dassie crawl. Move to the left in this until able to stand up and climb up to the overhang. Break through, using a huge jug on the left to swing out onto the lip on the right. Move to the left and climb the face above until it is possible to bridge up to a platform, then climb straight up a short face to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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E1

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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