One of the boldest routes in the 'berg! Steep and committing with minimal protection.To date only climbed 3 times.

Here Be Dragons

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Begin as for the Chain Ladder then to the right and around into a small gulley below the North Face of Sentinel Peak. Scramble up and left to the base of the arete.

Descent

Descend the standard route or rappel MCM.

Crag Descent:
Sentinel North Face
Sector Descent:

Route Description

Note: The traditional routes in The Drakensberg are still graded using the "old" system. As with routes in The Alps this is regarded as conveying more information precisely because it is more vague than modern technical rock grades. The grade chart on the Grade Tab gives an indication of the technical equivalence.

Beginning at the base of the buttress, a notable flake (#3.5 cam) can be seen around 12 metres up - start just left of this.

  1. 30m (G3): Climb the slab past a mantleshelf to the small overhang. Climb around the overhang on the right and then traverse back left to the base of
    the flake. From the top of the flake, move rightward to easier ground and up to a good ledge.
  2. 25m (G3): Gain the prominent recess up and to the right, via a large (suspect) flake. Climb the recess past a steep section to a stance below some overhanging blocks.
  3. 45m (G3): Move up through the blocks to a thin rail up and left. From there, steep grass leads up to easier ground. Continue to the highest terrace.
  4. 35m (H2/24): The pitch follows the vague break up the slab just left of a loose-looking flake at c5m, then continues to the recess above. This recess leads to the white patch of bird guano. Steep slab climbing leads to the flake. Step left to a bulge, then continue up and slightly right to a a short recess. Move up steep rock on the left, to a tricky sequence on rounded handholds, then move right into the main recess. Stem up and out right, then move up and left to stance on a narrow ledge.
  5. 30m (F3): Climb diagonally up left to a large horizontal break and continue up and left to a stance in a hueco below the final overhangs.
  6. 45m (G2): Climb the diagonal left-leaning break through the final overhangs (suspect rock) and scramble to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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E1

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5.14c

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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