Grappler

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FFA:
Mike Scott, Richard Behne 1986
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
Tafelberg Main Wall
Sector Descent:
Frontal Sector

Route Description

Start beneath the huge brown corners to the left of Tafelberg Frontal.

1.    12m (5b): Climb a recess, which leads to the large ledge strewn with blocks.

2.   30m (5c): Move over to the right to where the dark orange rock becomes more speckled. Climb two short walls, then a brown recess leading to an overhang with a smaller overhang under it formed by a long thick wafer. reaching boldly over this for the top edge, a galloping hand traverse left leads to easier rock. Pull up to a small cramped stance.

3.   20m (6a+): Wedge up the cleft above the stance and step right and up onto the smaller of the two slabs which lead out right, below the last curving smooth big overhang blocking the huge fault. Move delicately to the right, then grab the handrail and power along it until it widens and one can pull up to the stance on the corner.

4.   15m (5b): Climb a short wall up to a dassie ledge under the overhangs and traverse left into the huge recess.

5.   40m (5b): Climb the brown recess to the top roof. Move out right and continue up to the big ledge.

Note: The original route climbed faces to the right of the big corner also at about grade 5b.

6.   30m (5a): Finish up Mamacos's variation to the final pitch of Tafelberg Frontal, or climb the Frontal pitch at grade 4b.

Note: The original line climbed some thin faces way off to the left, but this is a tad contrived. Finishing direct is much better.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

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5.4

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5.10a

5.10b

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5.10d

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5.14b

5.14c

No items found.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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