Monteseel’s longest route, including nine pitches and approximately 200m of climbing, it traverses many of the popular routes in this area

Girdle Traverse

6a+
6a+

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Route Description

The climb was possibly opened in 1972 by Dave Cheesmond and Paul Bridgman, using aid to avoid existing climbs. The current route follows sections of existing routes to eliminate any aid.

Start at the base of the Pot Boiler crack.

  1. Pitch 1 (12): Traverse across the Hot Plate face to the end of the NoThoroughfare traverse. Go left across to reach the Fall Out ledge.
  2. Pitch 2 (19): Traverse past the tree and continue across the Hallucination face to the large flake on Pin Up. Reverse the Adam’s Apoplexy Variation traverse to reach a stance on Adam’s Apoplexy.
  3. Pitch 3 (13): Move around the corner and drop down to reverse the Nog High traverse, continuing to the tree.
  4. Pitch 4 (19): Continue across the No Feet face and move around the corner onto the Think face. Traverse at the level of the fixed piton on Think,to make a difficult hand swing from a small layback hold to reach Adam.Move across the Cain face to a stance above the start of Republican.
  5. Pitch 5 (13): Traverse as for the first pitch of Republican to a stance on the big ledge.
  6. Pitch 6 (18): Climb as for Republic Left Break from the big ledge to the corner. Do not move up to the flake but continue left on small holds to reachthe end of the Pendulum traverse. Reverse this to reach the Pendulum stance
  7. Pitch 7 (13): Traverse left and drop down to reach the Zig-Zag ledge. Move to the end of the ledge and reach a stance at the tree.
  8. Pitch 8 (15): Traverse across the face that forms the second pitch of Zig-Zag to a stance above a roof. Reach down and left to a layback hold, which enablesone to reach a handrail under the roof. Continue left past Top Heavy to a stance near Pilgrim’s Progress.
  9. Pitch 9 (15): Climb the open book just to the right of Pilgrim’s Progress

FA: Pitches1-7 – Mike Roberts, Roy Gooden (1977)

FA: Pitches8-9 – Dave and Carless Freer, Roy Gooden (1978)

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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