Abseil from the sloping ledge down to a narrow and cramped stance about8m above the ground.

The route follows the old aid route, Middle Age, opened by Colinand Dave Shuttleworth in the early 1970s

Start as for BlackDiedre, beginning from the same narrow stance above the ground

1. Climb diagonally right to the middle of the immaculate wall to an old, battered piton.
   Then climb straight up to a big, horizontal handrail where goodprotection is found.
   Move up another two moves to a thin, horizontal crack where very small cams can be placed.
   Keep moving right using small layaway holds (crux) to exit up a shallow groove past a piton.
   Continue to the top (There is a good piton 2m back from the edge for a belay.)