Start where the orange overhangs begin, beneath a four meter roof with a rectangular flake suspended midway across. This is about 100 meters to the left of the 1964 Route, and below a high buttress with a block sticking out at its top.

Scramble up 10 meters to a grey ledge.

1. 10m (6b): Climb to the roof and rail left along the flake, to the lip. Pull through on jugs and move up to a stance.

2. 25m (5c): Climb up and to the left to a small overhang. Pull through on amazing jugs, till forced to the right. Climb the ramp easily to a large ledge.

3. 45m (5c): Starting 10 meters to the right, climb up to and through a juggy layback. Move to the right and climb the break to a large ledge.

4. 20m (5b): Climb eight meters into the corner below the roof. Move to the left around the arête and climb up to a ledge.

Note: If you start the first pitch about 10 meters to the left and then traverse in above the roof the route can be kept to grade 17.

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