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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

One can walk off after pitch three by using the gully on the left. Scramble through this to gain the main Descent Gully.

Descent

Crag Descent:
East Wall
Sector Descent:
Motopshychosis Sector

Route Description

Walk down from the Pillar Box past the ledge where Settler's Way and Motopsychosis start. The climbing begins from a corner on the right-hand side of the overhangs on the lowest rock band.

1. 30m (5a): Climb up to the right to avoid friable rock, until it is possible to move to the left into the left-hand crack. Move to the right onto the overhanging face and up on good jugs to a ledge. Take off from a wobbly block and climb up to the ledge at the start of Settler's Way.

2. 40m (5a): Break through the 'mushroom' overhang just to the right of Settler's Way. Climb diagonally up to the right to the bottomless crack, breaking through an overhang above on huge jugs, then up to a ledge. Scramble to the top of the large pillar on the left.

3. 25m (5a): From the top of the block, climb the undercut face above to a ledge, then traverse to the right and straddle up to a large ledge. Walk to the left to the nek between the gullies (see previous route description).

4. 20m (4a): From the nek, scramble to the right across the mouth of a small cave to belay on a ledge. Climb straight up on good jugs to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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