The Valley is a traditional Zulu area falling under the Zulu King's chiefdom and is a cultural showcase of the Zulu Culture of Chief's, induna's and community land. A modern blend of subsistence farming and Western economy is well showcased here giving a far more realistic view of South Africa's mix of cultures and economics than, say, Cape Town.

Both the climbing destinations are easily accessed by normal sedan car and accommodation options abound in the formal hamlets above the Valley, with a select offering in the Valley itself as well.

Equipment:

Most climbs at Monteseel and Ringwood require a rack of sizes 1-12 nuts and at least eight cams. Very large cams are seldom needed, and small to medium sizes are best. A few 60 cm and 120 cm slings are also needed. Most climbers use the double rope technique (x2 halfropes) at these crags. Old Baldy can be climbed with a single rope (full rope).There are certain rope requirements for descending Old Baldy, and these are covered in that crag info.

There are numerous pitons in Monteseel, some of which date back to the 1940s. Use them with care and inspect them for rust, or you could be risking your life.  

At Monteseel and Ringwood, abseil chains have been bolted into the rock at various strategic places to aid in accessing the start of routes. OldBaldy needs a rack of quick draws, and on some routes a small trad rack is required. 

Rock:

Monteseel and Ringwood are comprised of Kwa-Zulu Natal series sandstone, a finely grained rock that is extremely hard. It is a sedimentary rock, laid down in horizontal layers,which gives rise to the numerous horizontal ‘rails’ referred to in the descriptions. The rock surfaces vary from medium rough to a smooth, almost polished texture.

Old Baldy is comprised of granite slabs with a rough texture and very few cracks.

Weather:

This area of KZN is hot and humid from November through to March and during these months expect uncomfortable conditions on most days between the hours of 10am and 3pm. During this time of year, it is possible to start climbing very early in the morning to beat the heat. Indeed, a dawn start and seeing the sun rise over the crags and sea of clouds below is well worth the effort.  Another option is to climb late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the air far cooler. The autumn and winter months are best for climbing, with dry, warm days and chilly mornings.

Old Baldy can be exceptionally hot and humid in summer and is seldom climbed during this time.

Ethics:

Monteseel is the main trad climbing crag of KZN, and has a strong ethic of no retro bolting. In the past, when a few retro bolts did appear on the main face in the Pin Up area, they were soon chopped. Monteseel unfortunately did fall prey to some bolting in the late ’80s and early ’90s, but these are now largely redundant due to rusting and are best left alone. The bolting of new sport routes is totally against the spirit of Monteseel today. Ringwood also has a no-sport ethic.

Old Baldy is a bolted area, due to a general lack of natural protection. It was bolted when first opened, and all bolts were replaced in 2019.  It remains a wild place, and climbers need to have some experience at multi-pitch climbing and other associated skills. It is not just another regular sport crag.

Conservation:

Monteseel is mostly on protected grassland under the control of the Durban Municipality, while Old Baldy is tribal land. Ringwood is a private small holding.  It goes without saying that climbers should not litter, destroy plants or disturb wildlife.

Monteseel and Ringwood have two alien invasive species, which need to be kept back from encroaching onto the climbs. These are Lantana (Lantana camara) and nutsedge. Lantana is a small woody shrub with sharp spines on the stems, and nutsedge grows in the cracks of some climbing routes. There are two species of nutsedge in South Africa, namely yellow nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus) and purple nuts edge. Both can infest a route, making climbing unpleasant. TheMountain Club has done much work in removing these weeds, both by chemicalmeans and with lots of hard labour. Climbers are encouraged to remove Lantana andnutsedge wherever possible.