General
Climbing
Key

Before the explosion of (bouldering mostly) climbing in The Cederberg, Montagu, in particular, was the vangaurd of sport climbing in the Western Cape. Later, Oudtshoorn was developed and is, to date, our only developed Limestone climbing in South Africa. Similarly, Calitzdorp is the only Conglomerate climbing currently in the Republic.

The winters are crisp and great for friction - this, coupled with the area's resistance to the winter rain of Cape Town make The Little Karoo a prime location from April to September. Summer climbing is certainly possible (many a December vacation has been enjoyed in Oudtshoorn) with prudent scheduling of activities in the cool hours.

The Little Karoo is separated from the Great Karoo by the Swartberg Mountain range. Geographically, it is a 290-km-long valley, 40–60 km wide, formed by two parallel Cape Fold Mountain ranges, the Swartberg to the north, and the Langeberg-Outeniqua range to the south.

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The secret weapon for climbers who demand flawless grip, long-lasting performance, and a chalk that works as hard as they doThe secret weapon for climbers who demand flawless grip, long-lasting performance, and a chalk that works as hard as they do

The northern strip of the valley, within 10–20 km from the foot of the Swartberg mountains is least karoo-like, in that it is a well-watered area both from the rain and the many streams that cascade down the mountain, or through narrow defiles in the Swartberg from the Great Karoo. The main towns, of climbing or adventure importance, in the region are situated along this northern strip of the Little Karoo: Montagu, Barrydale, Ladismith, Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn.

The region carries a 4 star trad rating, but, it is worth noting that Lost World (which brings the accolades to the region) is currently sensitive / restricted access.

Geology of the Little Karoo

The valley is an integral part of the Cape Fold Mountain Belt, with the two ranges on either side composed of extremely hard, erosion-resistant, quartzitic sandstone belonging to the 450- to 510-million-year-old Table Mountain Group (i.e. the oldest layer of the Cape Supergroup).

The Little Karoo contains two other geological features that give the landscape a special character. These "Enon Conglomerates", as they are known, were deposited by high energy, fast flowing rivers,[14] and are found between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn, where they form the strikingly red "Redstone Hills".

The second special geological feature that marks the Little Karoo is the 300-km-long fault line along the southern edge of the Swartberg Mountains. The Swartberg Mountains were lifted up along this fault, to such an extent that in the Oudtshoorn region, the rocks that form the base of the Cape Supergroup are exposed. These are locally known as the Cango Group, composed of limestone, into which an underground stream has carved the impressively extensive Cango Caves.

Single & Multi Pitch
Paul Brouard on the first South African Ascent of Mazawatee (8c) - 📸 Trystan Firman
Don Burls pulling hard at The Palace - 📸 Trystan Firman

Montagu

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Montagu is awesome
1
min
-
1
hr
630
m ASL
Best climbing shoes, harnesses, boulder pads and quickdraws in South AfricaBest climbing shoes, harnesses, boulder pads and quickdraws in South Africa
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.