PM Shade
Single Pitch
2 Pitches
Standard
60m
Overhang
Overhang
Powerful
Slab
Technical
Vert
Steep
Aspect and Weather
Most of Tysons Crag receives sun until midday. The crag has many faces aimed in many directions but in summer it is only worth going to the crag at 10am. In winter the sun is welcomed at the crag. There is always a bit of wind at the crag keeping it cool. Unless climbing in the cave, rain makes the routes unclimbable.
Climbing
Most routes at the crag are slabby or vertical and are quite long. The rock is very quartzitic and lacks friction but has many good edges. There is some harder climbing at the crag; 'Greg, That Greedy Son of a Bitch' was opened on PE's hottest day in 40 years. There is potential for hard climbs in either of the two caves, but most of the climbing is of an easy or moderate grade.
Base
The venue is split into two sectors, Main Crag and Cave of the Abatwa. Both have very comfortable bases great for hanging out between climbs and setting up hammocks. The cave sector is accessed by walking down the far right side of the Main Crag and navigating your way down the rope systems. If you are brave enough to handle a bush-whack, there is a beautiful waterfall down in the valley.
Ticks have been an issue here, be sure to bring repellant. There is a beehive near to the three projects on the left side of the lower sector take caution!
Currently access is through the locals, contact Derek Marshall through the Eastern Cape Climbing website for more information.
No items found.
Approach
From the parking walk down the grassy bank into a low forest. The trail takes you to the cliffs edge at the top of the crag. Turn right and follow the path down to the crag. Easy approach, about 400m.
Descent
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Boullder
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Boullder
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Boullder
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Boullder
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24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
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22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
6a+
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
6a+
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
7a
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
7b
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
6b+
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
5b
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
6a+
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
6a+
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
|
|
|
22d:ch
22d:ch
20d:ch
19d:ch
18d:ch
17d:ch
16d:ch
15d:ch
14d:ch
13d:ch
12d:ch
11d:ch
10d:ch
9d:ch
8d:ch
7d:ch
6d:ch
5d:ch
4d:ch
3d:ch
2d:ch
Trad
Single Pitch
Multi Pitch
Boullder
Main Crag
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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The first wall one reaches when approaching Tyson's Crag, with most of the climbing.
8
min
-
hr
m ASL
Cave of the Abatwa
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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
The lower sector of the crag with hard route potential and a few projects
15
min
-
hr
m ASL
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No Properties found.
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Icons and Symbols
AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
