Most of Tysons Crag receives sun until midday. The crag has many faces aimed in many directions but in summer it is only worth going to the crag at 10am. In winter the sun is welcomed at the crag. There is always a bit of wind at the crag keeping it cool. Unless climbing in the cave, rain makes the routes unclimbable.
Most routes at the crag are slabby or vertical and are quite long. The rock is very quartzitic and lacks friction but has many good edges. There is some harder climbing at the crag; 'Greg, That Greedy Son of a Bitch' was opened on PE's hottest day in 40 years. There is potential for hard climbs in either of the two caves, but most of the climbing is of an easy or moderate grade.
The venue is split into two sectors, Main Crag and Cave of the Abatwa. Both have very comfortable bases great for hanging out between climbs and setting up hammocks. The cave sector is accessed by walking down the far right side of the Main Crag and navigating your way down the rope systems. If you are brave enough to handle a bush-whack, there is a beautiful waterfall down in the valley.
Ticks have been an issue here, be sure to bring repellant. There is a beehive near to the three projects on the left side of the lower sector take caution!
Currently access is through the locals, contact Derek Marshall through the Eastern Cape Climbing website for more information.
From the parking walk down the grassy bank into a low forest. The trail takes you to the cliffs edge at the top of the crag. Turn right and follow the path down to the crag. Easy approach, about 400m.
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