Lion's Head Granite

Sheltered from both north and south winds and drying quickly after rain, this crag is an excellent venue for climbing in dubious weather. During summer, the crag can become very hot around midday and hence requires an early start, but it provides a serene setting for sunset climbs. It is a great venue for winter afternoons. Although the majority of the climbs are multi-pitch trad routes, some sport routes also exist. Be prepared for a fair amount of run-out, scary friction climbing. Challenges range from cracks to balancy faces to powerful moves. Unfortunately, this area is a hot-spot for muggings, so it is not advised to visit in a small group or tohang around until dusk or dark.

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Approach

Park at the end of Top Road in Fresnay and head up to the slabs above. There is a vague path on the treeline. The alternate approach is to park at the Kramat parking on Signal Hill Road and follow the Lion's Head Circular trail anticlockwise until you meet the path to the slabs.

Link to Kramat parking: https://maps.app.goo.gl/S5TWCzHcgEBWGvTP9

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Descent

Either abseil (might require 60m rope) or scramble back to base. More detailed specific instructions can be found under each sector.

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Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

Blue Max Sector

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

min

360

m ASL

AM Shade

Trad

Single Pitch

Slab

Crack Climb

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

Huguenot Sector

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

min

360

m ASL

AM Shade

7B | Ch

Sport & Trad

Single Pitch

2 Pitches

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

de Bruin Sector

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

This sector is home to some of Lion's Head's better crack climbs.

min

m ASL

AM Shade

8B | Ch

Sport & Trad

2 Pitches

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

Jampuff Sector

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

This sections includes all the routes on the Jampuff and Knuckleduster Boulders at the far right hand end of the crag.

min

360

m ASL

AM Shade

Trad

Single Pitch

Slab

Crack Climb

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

The Encore Boulder

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

min

360

m ASL

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Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Single Pitch

Boulder

High Ball

Silhouette Sector

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

min

0.5

360

m ASL

AM Shade

Trad

Standard

Slab

Technical

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GAIA GPS

Click to see the GPX track.
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Google Maps

Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade

Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade

10B | Ch

Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)

Alpine

Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )

Ice

Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills

Sport

Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES

Sport & Trad

Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles

Trad

Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties

2 Pitches

Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route

Special

Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA

Standard

Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.

50m

Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.

Double

Typically climbed using half ropes

Corner

Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.

Crack Climb

Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.

Overhang

Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.

Overhang

Overhanging, usually involving roofs.

Powerful

Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.

Slab

Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.

Steep

Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y

Technical

Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.

Vert

General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

Approach

Descent

Blue Max Sector

Huguenot Sector

de Bruin Sector

Jampuff Sector

The Encore Boulder

Silhouette Sector

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