Eastern Magaliesburg
»
Fernkloof
»
Fernkloof Upper
Shade All Day
Sport
Single Pitch
50m
Overhang
Technical
General
Climbing
Beta

Access

The crag is accessed through the Bergheim campsite. A small climbing permit must be paid to climb at Fern.


Aspect and Weather

This crag gets shade for most of the day, usually completely shaded from about 10am. This crag, having a vert nature, will get wet when it rains.

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Climbing

The best and most worth while climbing here starts at 24/7a, with the classic routes having a 26/7b entry barrier. Brace yourself for technical face climbing.

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Base

The base is along the riverbed and one must sometimes belay from the trunk of a tree which overhangs a pool. 

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Best climbing shoes, harnesses, boulder pads and quickdraws in South Africa

Approach

Walk to the back of the Bergheim campsite and through the self-closing gate. Follow the ‘D’ trail until reaching the mouth of the kloof, from here just follow the river in, passed the lower crag and another 100m to the Upper Crag.

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Descent

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Aqualung
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BET
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Acromax
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Lost Ruby
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Thunderstruckk
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The Favourite Game
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F2 Corner
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Beautiful Losers
BEA
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A Will to Cower
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Mirror Mirror
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Looking Glass
LOO
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Liquid Glass
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Bambie and the Broken Leg
BAM
6c
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Reflected Sins
REF
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Boullder
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.