Western Magaliesburg
»
Fernkloof
»
Fernkloof Lower
Shade All Day
General
Climbing
Beta

Access

The crag is accessed through the Bergheim campsite. A small climbing permit must be paid to climb at Fern.


Aspect and Weather

This crag gets shade for most of the day, usually completely shaded from about 10am. Can stay dry in rains but after a few hours tends to seep quite badly owing to the many top-down crack features.

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Climbing

The best and most worth while climbing here starts at 24/7a, with the classic routes having a 26/7b entry barrier. Brace yourself for overhanging resistance climbing. Lots of power endurance goes a long way on this slick rock.

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Base

The base is along the riverbed and one must sometimes take care not to get their rope wet when pulling it through. Please try to keep from having a yard sale with your gear, base space is limited and it can feel crowed quickly. 

girl bouldering in rocklands cederberg outdoor climbing

Approach

Walk to the back of the Bergheim campsite and through the self-closing gate. Follow the ‘D’ trail until reaching the mouth of the kloof, from here just follow the river in for another 50m and you will arrive at Fernkloof. 

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Descent

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The Two Legged Cockroach
2LC
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The Silver Studded Phantom Motorcycle Queen
SSP
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Crook & Crime
C&C
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Vandals
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Hoodlum
HOO
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Mr Toad's Wild Ride
MRT
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Faberge
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Stormwatch
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StormOver
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Stormwatch Direct
SWD
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Strong Arm of the Law
SAL
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Lawyers Guns and Money
LGM
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True Sailing is Dead
TSD
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.