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Aspect and Weather

This crag gets sun for most of the day until around 1pm. Best climbed at early in the morning or late afternoon or on an overcast day. The crag can stay dry in some light rain. 

Climbing

The climbing here is overhanging face climbing with many small edges on very quartzitic rock. The wall overhangs slightly creating some great pump with many routes being consistent not cruxy. 

Base

The base of the crag is comfortable and can host a few parties, but when not frequented often, birds can move in and their poop at the base can be unpleasant. The dam is great for swimming in if you opt to brave the midday sun. 

Best climbing shoes, harnesses, boulder pads and quickdraws in South Africa

Approach

From the parking follow the dirt road passed some houses on your left, the road turns to a 4x4 track with a garage on your right. Follow this track into the gorge as it turns to a steep concrete road. Walk down the road, passed the water pump-house and down the stairs. Head upstream up a small ladder and onto a small dam wall. Follow the wall left, turning right off the wall onto a narrow track and follow this track staying left of the river for around 200m. Climb the 3 concrete steps on a rocky slab and then cross the river after about 10m on some large rocks. Track right of the pools and up the right side of the slab ramp. Follow the path along the river until reaching the dam wall. Follow a path that skirts right up the side of the dam wall, onto the dam wall and then along the right side of the dam until reaching the crag.

Descent

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.