Aspect and Weather
This crag gets sun for most of the day until around 1pm. Best climbed at early in the morning or late afternoon or on an overcast day. The crag can stay dry in some light rain.
Climbing
The climbing here is overhanging face climbing with many small edges on very quartzitic rock. The wall overhangs slightly creating some great pump with many routes being consistent not cruxy.
Base
The base of the crag is comfortable and can host a few parties, but when not frequented often, birds can move in and their poop at the base can be unpleasant. The dam is great for swimming in if you opt to brave the midday sun.
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From the parking follow the dirt road passed some houses on your left, the road turns to a 4x4 track with a garage on your right. Follow this track into the gorge as it turns to a steep concrete road. Walk down the road, passed the water pump-house and down the stairs. Head upstream up a small ladder and onto a small dam wall. Follow the wall left, turning right off the wall onto a narrow track and follow this track staying left of the river for around 200m. Climb the 3 concrete steps on a rocky slab and then cross the river after about 10m on some large rocks. Track right of the pools and up the right side of the slab ramp. Follow the path along the river until reaching the dam wall. Follow a path that skirts right up the side of the dam wall, onto the dam wall and then along the right side of the dam until reaching the crag.
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