Upper Africa Ledge - Africa Nose Sector

Climbs starting on Upper Africa Ledge around the Africa Crag/Nose area on the far left of Upper Africa Ledge.

PM Shade
Standard
Steep
60m

The routes left of Africa Crag are seldom climbed - "Polyphased Deformation" has only seeing a handful of ascents to date, despite the accessible grade.

Approach

A variety of approaches are possible, the most convenient being to Rappel in after taking the cable car up.

Rappel Beta:

Option 1: Exit the upper cable station and IMMEDIATELY turn 180 degrees (so that you now have the exit doors just to your left). Walk along the righthand (East) wall of the building, step over a low gate with a no entry sign, walk along the grated walk-way and down a small flight of metal stairs.
From the bottom of the stairs, climb over the railing and rappel (or down scramble) approximately 40m (toward Devils Peak) until ontop of a large, flat rock. stash your bags and boots here, rack-up. The first of two abseils is located on the Devils Peak side of the big flat block you are standing on and are accessed by walking down the CLIMBERS LEFT (IE looking at the mountain) side of the flat rock.
2 x 45m rappel's get you to Upper Africa Ledge (IE you need two ropes or an 80m single)

Option 2: Exit the upper cable station and walk left (East) along the cobblestone path until the second viewing platform is reached. Scramble down the LOOKERS LEFT of this platform, down a gully (tricky) and onto a large vegitaged ledge with a tunnel/cave formed by a massive boulder leaning against the mountain. Get kitted here and stash your bags.
Walk through the bushes toward the edge of the cliff, now facing directly the upper cable station and midway to the gully on your left. Abseil bolts are visible in a small gully.
2 x 45m rappel's get you to Upper Africa Ledge (IE you need two ropes or an 80m single)

Walking Up:

Walk up the India Venster Hiking trail. 10m before the point that India Venster goes around to the West, turn left (East) and follow a feint trail to a Cave (the Oddshouters Cave). Most parties stash their packs here.

Climb any of the routes off Africa Ledge to gain Upper Africa Ledge, most parties use the first two pitches of Ruminating Crag to gain Upper Africa Ledge, however a cleaner, slightly harder, option is the option up the wall just left of the start of Atlantic Crag:

Ruminating Crag

Start: to the right of the Oddshouters Outing overhang there is a chimney.

1.   15m '10': Climb up the left-hand branch of the chimney to a platform and then move up and left, through a hole, and up to stance.

2.   15m '11': Continue up the  chimney and dassie traverse to the left at the top, underneath the overhang. You are now on Upper Africa Ledge.

These are often soloed - use your discretion!

Another alternative is the first pitch of Africa Wall.

Descent: Use the Cuckoo's Nest Prow abseils unless stated otherwise. Walk left along the ledge, down over a block and around the corner. Continue under the roof to the other end where an abseil anchor will be found. One 50m abseil will get you down to the slab just above Upper Africa Ledge. NB: the ropes do not reach the ledge! Scramble down easily from here.

Descent

Rappel either down next to the top of Oddshouters Outing, or the top of Africa Cracks.

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AM Shade
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10B | Ch
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Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
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Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
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Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
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Standard
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Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
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Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
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Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
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Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
Highball
Warning - Highball boulder