This route was originally opened as a reconnaissance mission and is essentially a girdle traverse of the South-east face and the BP Overhang sector, even including an abseil somewhere in the middle. It is probably only for jaded Wolfberg fans who have climbed most of the other routes, unless you have a particular penchant for girdle traverses.
Start on the extreme right of the South-east face, just right off Alone in Space.
1. 25 m (4a): Climb the recess to a ledge. Walk to the right and ascend the crest of a nose, then pull up to a stance on the left of a tree at the top of a recess. Dassie traverse left to a jammed flake and hand swing to a good stance on the left.
2. 15 m (3+): Jam up the crack into a chimney on the right of the detached pedestal. Climb the chimney and step left into a shallow crack in the face to gain a ledge next to a precariously poised flake.
3. 35 m (4b): Walk 15 m to the left. Descend slightly and traverse further left to gain a shallow groove. Climb the groove, then walk and dassie traverse to the left as far as possible to where the ledge pinches out in a blank face.
4. 15 m (abseil): Abseil off at chockstone down a crack. Swing in under an overhang onto a good hand and foot rail, then traverse 2 m left to a small stance.
5. 50 m (4b): Traverse left to a broad grassy ledge below an overhanging crack. Walk left over blocks onto a ledge below the overhangs, to a vertical wall forming a step in the overhangs. Continue for a further 25 m left along an easy dassie traverse, then step down and traverse awkwardly around smooth bulge to a stance with blocks.
6. 30 m (3-): Descend 6 m to a ledge with a large unoccupied eagle’s nest on it. Walk past the nest and climb diagonally left to a cramped cubbyhole stance 5 m up.
7. 20 m (4a): Move left around the corner into a vertical recess and climb this to exit right at the top. Continue up to a ledge 4 m below a small overhang. Traverse left a few meters, then climb a short face to a knobbly stance below a sharp, orange curving crack.
8. 20m (12): Climb the curving crack in two steps, then traverse 5 m right into a short recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to exit left via a smooth face. Scramble diagonally right to the base of a deep chimney.
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