This is a very old climb and a magnificant classic. It has been known by different names in the past but is most likely closest in line to the original NE Corner Route opened around the turn of the century.

White Face

3+

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FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

The route starts just above the Circular Route, a short distance after it rounds the corner directly above the Lion's Rump. This is about 80m before the Circular Route encounters the first ladder and immediately after a 4m high rock step in the Circular Route. A cairn can be found next to a small cave, 3 or 4m above the path.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Lionshead Sandstone
Sector Descent:
The White Face Sector

Route Description

P1 - 20m. 3-: Climb the stepped face from left to right to a broad ledge above. Scramble across to the next rock band and follow the path 30m left to the start of some ramps and cracks leading diagonally right to the skyline. Directly above is a long triangular overhang.

P2 - 30m, 3+: Climb the ramps and cracks rightwards to a narrow ledge below the overhang. Traverse right along the ledge to a block on the corner. From the top of the block continue up the corner to the vegetated band above. Walk across the vegetated band to chimney/crack break a few metres right of a horrible looking gully/chimney.

P3 - 25m, 3: Climb the chimney/crack for 15m until forced right by a roof. Climb a shallow recess to a sqaure, inset ledge next to a huge block/pinnacle.

P4 - 20m, 3: Climb onto the block. Step across onto the face and continue up the crack, past a stance to the ledge above. Scrambling leads to the summit.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

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G1

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H1

3-

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3+

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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