A good route that deserves more ascents. The second pitch is wild.

Wailing Wall

5a

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FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

The route starts up an under-cut, lichen covered nose. This is 20m right of where the face first steps back and directly below the left extremity of the long triangular overhang bypassed by the second pitch of White Face.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Lionshead Sandstone
Sector Descent:
The White Face Sector

Route Description

P1 - 25m, 4b: Stepping off a block climbs up the front of the nose. Continue slightly right and up following clean cracks and another short open-book to the overhang. Rail right, around the corner below the overhang and up into a cave. Traverse left on friable rock to pass the last overhang and continue up to the vegetated band above. Scramble straight up to the next rock band. Pitch 2 begins about 8m left of the horrible, deep chimney cleft (climbed by Signal Crack). Above is a long overhang that narrows on the left.

P2 - 20m, 5a: Climb the face directly above the beacon. Continue up and leftwards, past a piton and pull through the overhang on the left into a short, bottomless, right-facing open book. Once established above the small overhang, traverse right below the next overhang. Continue up to a belay on a ledge on the left.

P3 - 25m, 4b: From the middle of the ledge climb up to a v-groove. Continue up the v-groove and onto debris-strewn ledge above. Cross the debris-strewn ledge and continue up another broken face. Belay where the angle eases off. Scrambling leads to the summit.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

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5.14c

No items found.

Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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