'Classic hard route, technically not too difficult, but gets one into impressive positions on superb rock with strenuous climbing' D. Cheesmond in his '50 Selected Routes' 1978

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FA:
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1961
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

From Fountain Ledge scramble up to a point where the rock becomes more com­pact. The start of the upper Arrow Final section is just to the left. A small foot-wide ledge running right will be reached. It has a small vertical block on it. Stance at the block.(The original route started lower and to the right.)

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Magnetic Wall Sector

Route Description

1.     17m '17': Walk right a few meters on the ledge until forced to swing up to a rail and

further right still onto a semi-circular sloping ledge. Rail right until you are at the base of a vertical crack. Pull up into this until able to stand. Continue to stance on the ledge.

Walk right 9 meters along the ledge to the base of a diagonal recess.

2.    20m '16': Climb the recess for 4/Sm and then traverse to the left to a ledge below a large slanting flake of rock. Climb the flake to the base of an overhanging face. Ascend this face to stance under the long overhang.

3.    10m '20': From the extreme right-hand edge of the ledge, climb up to the overhang (peg). Reach right to a handrail and swing right under the roof to around the corner. Once able to stand up step right and balance up to the coolest stance in the universe.

4.   30m '16': The Ramp Pitch: A delicate traverse for 4m right, followed by a recess, leads to a stance below a long, shallow chimney. Climb the chimney for 18m then traverse to the left and climb the face to the top.

Walk left along the ledge to the corner.

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Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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