The Gully Buttress

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FA:

Martin Versfeld

S. Alexander

H. Wood

1930

FFA:

Overview

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:

South Wall

Sector Descent:

Big Groove Sector

Route Description

Takes the left containing buttress of the Descent Gully. Start around the corner to the left of Night Cap. On the left of the crest of the buttress and facing the Spout is a long thin crack tapering out at it's lower end. Start below and to the right of this crack. Climb up and left to gain the crack. From inside the crack back-and-foot for six meters to a small ledge leading out to the top of the slit overlooking the Pillar Box. Traverse right to a small platform and onto a ledge. Continue up the bulging face above for 12 meters and continue to the top on easy rock.

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Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Featured Gallery

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Drakensberg Grading

French / South African

YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c

14 5a

15 5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

23

7a

24

7a+

25

7b

26

7b+

27

7c

28

7c+

29

8a

30

8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS

Click to see the GPX track.
Requires GAIA GPS App

Google Maps

Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade

Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade

10B | Ch

Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)

Alpine

Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )

Ice

Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills

Sport

Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES

Sport & Trad

Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles

Trad

Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties

2 Pitches

Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route

Special

Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA

Standard

Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.

50m

Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.

Double

Typically climbed using half ropes

Corner

Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.

Crack Climb

Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.

Overhang

Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.

Overhang

Overhanging, usually involving roofs.

Powerful

Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.

Slab

Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.

Steep

Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y

Technical

Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.

Vert

General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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