This is a good line with some interesting pitches.

Rumpelstiltskin

5a

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

On the corner overlooking the Lion's Rump is a large recess. About half-way up, a large pointed flake/shark's fin makes a v-groove with the right-hand wall. Start next to an upright, rectangular block in the open-book below the flake.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Lionshead Sandstone
Sector Descent:
The White Face Sector

Route Description

P1 - 20m, 5a: Climb the open-book and continue up through the v-groove formed by the flake and the right hand wall. At the overhang, move out 2m to the right and pull up through a break. The next pitch starts on the corner, 3m right of Signal Crack and a few metres left of the third pitch of White Face.

P2 - 20m, 4b: Climb up 5m then layback up a crack. Climb diagonally right and then back left to stand on a small block. Move up to the left to a ledge.

P3 - 15m, 4b: Climb diagonally to the right and then up an open-book until squeezed under the small roof formed by the edge of a huge block above. Climb out to the left, then up and back right to a spectacular stance on top of the block.

P4 - 15m, 4a: Climb straight up to the top. Scrambling leads to the summit.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

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6c+

23

7a

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7a+

25

7b

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7b+

27

7c

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7c+

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8a

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8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

No items found.

Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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