The The first pitch had not previously been climbed. The rest of the route had been climbed by other parties in the past but the pitches had not been linked into a continuous line.

REM

6c
6c

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

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35

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37

38

39

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FA:
No items found.
1998
FFA:
Leo Rust, Dave Turnbull
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

As for The Dream.

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
The Dream Ledge

Route Description

1.  20m '23': Where The Dream steps onto the face and then right, REM goes straight up the layback crack to a rail. Continue up the middle of the face. At the top step left to meet up with the overhanging crack used by The Dream to reach the dassie ledge.

2. 20m '21': Step slightly left, pull through the roof using a high pocket. Climb the short face to the groove above. Climb this (shared with The Dream). At the top step left using underclings to a hanging stance at a# 2.5/ 3 'friend' rail.

3. 25m '21': Straight up to the overhang, pull through at the break. Climb straight up the face to a ledge.

Scramble up to a ledge running leftwards under overhangs. Continue left to the corner.

 

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Alternate Description

Pitch two and three can be combined to make a long and fantastically sustained pitch.

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Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

23

7a

24

7a+

25

7b

26

7b+

27

7c

28

7c+

29

8a

30

8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

No items found.

Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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