One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest

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FA:
No items found.
1977
FFA:
J Colenso, A. Vercueil
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Start: Past the lily pond is abuilt up cave, underneath a large roof. Just to the right of the cave: start below the undercut crack with a pocketin it

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge
Sector Descent:
Africa Ledge Proper

Route Description

1.    23m '29': Climb the crack to a narrow rest ledge. Climb the corner and face to gain a

pocket in the ceiling. Climb out on a few more pockets to gain the roof crack. Bat like moves enable one to reach the lip. Belay a few moves above.

2.    30m '17': Move to the right and climb up a vertical face with a slight fault in it.

Cross Upper Africa Ledge to the Cuckoo's Nest Prow. The next pitch is a more direct line than the original. The pitch starts in a shallow scoop 5m to the right of the left hand arete. (as for Out to Lunch)

3.    12m '22': Step up into a shallow corner, pull hard up to a rail and ledge. Go straight up

a short crack for a few moves until able to move left to another crack, follow this to stance at a large block. (It is best to stance to the right of the block.)

4.   14m '24': Climb the hairline crack to the Africa Wall 'Flakes Traverse'. Traverse 8m left to a point where this widens to a ledge.

5.    12m '26': Pull up onto the face, using the layback crack, below an orange rock scar. Continue past a peg to the overhang. Rail left to a vertical crack. Pull up past a peg to stance at the next rail.

6.    30m '23': Step slightly left and layback up the flared crack to a clump of grass. Pass

this on the left, at the rail go left and onto the arete. Climb this for a move before going back right under the overhang. Rail right to easier climbing. Climb the recess above to a large ledge.

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Alternate Description

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Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
Click to see the GPX track.
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Google Maps
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Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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