Start as for Cutback. The route breaks through the middle of the enormous ceiling on top of the steeply overhanging wall. The hard pitch is impressive enough, but the top pitch of this route is probably the most exposed, exciting pitch in the country, unquestionably so at its grade.

1.    20m (5a): Climb up a few meters to a ledge, then walk 15 meters to the right end of the ledge.

2.   35m (6c+): Rail right for about seven meters to a crack, which is followed up to a ledge. Walk or crawl about 20 meters to the right and up two meters to a stance.

3.   30m (6a+): Move diagonally left on assorted jugs and sharp rails towards the terrifying roof. The cubbyhole below the break is reached via a friend # 4 rail, and exited on immense buckets. Rest assured that the crux is far below the roof and is probably overgraded.

Note 1: A direct start to pitch two can be climbed at grade 7b. Start directly below the crack on pitch two and climb the steep break to reach that crack. Continue as above.

Note 2: The top pitch can be accessed from the top pitch of A Chain of Voices or a variation slightly to the right of the Chain of Voices pitch. This will make the route more direct and bring the grade down to 6b+ making for a superb outing and very recommended.

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