About 10m left of the tea cave look for a crack breaking right and capped by an overhang.
Walking right at the top of pitch 3 takes one to the abseil point at the top of the gendarme. One 35m abseil gains the broad ledge.
P1 - 25m, 5a: Layback for 5m up to the small overhang. Pull through this moving left and up over easier rock to a flat, slightly overhanging face split by 2 rails. Climb this face to the vegetated band above. Cross the vegetated band heading to the left of the gendarme.
P2 - 13m, 6a: Start 6m left of the recessed corner on the left of the gendarme. Follow a crack line that breaks right up a series of lichenous ramps (the necessary grips are clean and the lichen does not intrude). After 5m move right (tricky move) and continue up to a ledge half-way up the face below the overhang
P3 - 35m, 5b: Above and to the left is a break through the large overhang. Move left up a steep face to the break, pulling through the overhang. Move left and up, laying away until able to mantelshelf onto a stance. Climb a short, steep face to a grassy ledge.
For the purist: P4-P6 - 80m, 4b: A series of short, overhanging ledges takes you to the top.
Note: With careful rope management it is possible to join pitch 2 and 3 to give a spectacular and long 40m pitch.
Note: With careful rope management it is possible to join pitch 2 and 3 to give a spectacular and long 40m pitch.
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