A great adventure: delicate, technical moves and some overhangs.

Naught for your comfort

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

About 10m left of the tea cave look for a crack breaking right and capped by an overhang.

Descent

Walking right at the top of pitch 3 takes one to the abseil point at the top of the gendarme. One 35m abseil gains the broad ledge.

Crag Descent:
Lionshead Sandstone
Sector Descent:
The Clifton Sector

Route Description

P1 - 25m, 5a: Layback for 5m up to the small overhang. Pull through this moving left and up over easier rock to a flat, slightly overhanging face split by 2 rails. Climb this face to the vegetated band above.  Cross the vegetated band heading to the left of the gendarme.

P2 - 13m, 6a: Start 6m left of the recessed corner on the left of the gendarme.  Follow a crack line that breaks right up a series of lichenous ramps (the necessary grips are clean and the lichen does not intrude). After 5m move right (tricky move) and continue up to a ledge half-way up the face below the overhang

P3 - 35m, 5b: Above and to the left is a break through the large overhang.  Move left up a steep face to the break, pulling through the overhang.  Move left and up, laying away until able to mantelshelf onto a stance. Climb a short, steep face to a grassy ledge.

For the purist: P4-P6 - 80m, 4b: A series of short, overhanging ledges takes you to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Note: With careful rope management it is possible to join pitch 2 and 3 to give a spectacular and long 40m pitch.

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Note: With careful rope management it is possible to join pitch 2 and 3 to give a spectacular and long 40m pitch.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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