A welcome addition to the Sentinel offering a Multi Pitch Alpine Sport experience at a relatively accessible grade on one of the least committing Peaks.

MCM

6b+

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

From the Sentinel Car Park walk toward the chain ladders for c45min. As soon as you round the North Spur you will look up at the gully between the Gendarme (left Skyline) and Sentinel. Leave the path at an appropriate point to ascend the grass slope and then the gully.

Continue to 40m before the base of a rock step (looks like a large chockstone is obstructing your progress), and look for the bolts on the right hand face.

Descent

Either

  • Descend MCM via rappel (70m single or 50m double ropes)
  • Descend the Standard route
Crag Descent:
Sentinel West Face
Sector Descent:

Route Description

40m right of the rock-step at the head of the approach gully, a shallow groove left of the short pillar provides access to the wall.

1. 36m (6a+): Climb the initial groove, then make a thin move left, then back right onto a ramp. Follow the ramp over an overhang near the top to the chains on the left.

2. 33m (5c): Climb the ramp, then traverse right to a small stance..

3. 20m (6b+ or 6a+ AO): Climb up over a bulge into a shallow recess exiting right to traverse c4m further right. Climb up to a shallow scoop, and continue up exiting left onto the stance.

4. 30m (5c): Traverse up and left under an overhang, then continue straight up the corner above. Continue over ledges to a stance.

5. 20m (5c): Climb up leftwards over ledges and blocks to a grassy ledge.

6. 25m (5c): Climb the layback crack, then exit right and climb trending right to a slanted ledge below a ramp leading up to an overhang.

7. 15m (5c): Climb up the ramp, avoiding some loose blocks, under the final roof. Make an exposed traverse rightwards to exit onto the ridge at the anchor.

Scramble up the ridge above to join the Standard Route.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
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5b

16

5c

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6a

18

6a+

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6b

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6b+

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6c

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6c+

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7a

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7a+

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7b

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7b+

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7c

28

7c+

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8a

30

8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

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5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

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5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

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5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
Click to see the GPX track.
Requires GAIA GPS App
Google Maps
Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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