Sits in a corner and pulls out a plum. Has nice sections on it. The top can be very sandy.

Little Jack Horner

5c

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FA:
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1980
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Twenty metres right of the Oddshouters teaspot is a large square recessed face 10m above the path. Little Jack Horner, Moonrake and Last Three Inches start in this.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge
Sector Descent:
Africa Ledge Proper

Route Description

1.  10m '16': Climb the wall to the large ledge below a big nose left of the Moonrake chimney.

2.     20m '17': Ascend the left edge of the nose.

3.     12m '12': Scramble over some blocks to below the crack ahead. Use the first few meters of the Atlantic Crag pitch and traverse out left and up to a ledge.

4.     12m '17 A1': Climb the undercut smooth slab on the right, using a fixed peg and two nuts. Move back diagonally left to a stance.

5.     15m '16': Climb some steps to bypass the overhang above on the left. Traverse back right on the lip of the overhang and pull up a short awkward groove to a ledge.

6.     26m'16': Traverse left over some blocks to a point below a horrible yellow bulge, pull onto a short sandy-looking wall. Traverse left to an awkward exit onto a ledge/cave at the end of the Africa Cracks traverse.

7.     15m '14': Walk right and scramble onto a huge block. Pull up some awkward moves on a rib above then take a line left until easy ground.

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Alternate Description

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Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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