Lion's Share

This is a fine and direct climb on excellent rock.

Lion's Share

5b

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FA:

FFA:

Overview

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Approximately 12m to the right of the old lookout is a deep crack/groove capped by overhangs. Lion's Share starts up a crack 4m right of the deep groove.

Descent

Either scramble to the summit or find the abseil anchor at the top of Bantry Crag. One 60m abseil gains the lookout level.

Crag Descent:

Lionshead Sandstone

Sector Descent:

The Clifton Sector

Route Description

P1 - 20m, 5a: Climb the crack to a ledge below the overhang. Move right to a break. Climb the break to the vegetated band above. Scramble across the vegetated band to a scoop/shallow recess just left of a very low cave. This is about 4m right of Rainbow Crag's second pitch and about 5m left of Route By T. Huges.

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P2 - 17m, 5a: Climb the shallow recess to the ledge above. Climb a crack that flares higher up. At the small roof move right onto the face and then up to the next ledge.

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P3 - 18m, 5b: Climb up onto the white block with the cairn on top. Move up and 1.5m right to follow a thin crack straight up to a narrow shelf. Move right along the shelf until able to follow an easy break to the ledges above.

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P4 - 8m, 4b: Climb a face to the right of a crack to finish.

Alternate Description

Variation to P2, 6a+:

FA: D. Mercer and M. Burmeister, 2007.

Climb the jam crack the splits the wall above the low cave immediately right of the shallow recess. At the ledge above, step 2m left to continue up the flaring crack.

Tips & Tricks

Video

Featured Gallery

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Drakensberg Grading

French / South African

YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c

14 5a

15 5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

23

7a

24

7a+

25

7b

26

7b+

27

7c

28

7c+

29

8a

30

8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS

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Google Maps

Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade

Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade

10B | Ch

Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)

Alpine

Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )

Ice

Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills

Sport

Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES

Sport & Trad

Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles

Trad

Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties

2 Pitches

Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route

Special

Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA

Standard

Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.

50m

Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.

Double

Typically climbed using half ropes

Corner

Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.

Crack Climb

Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.

Overhang

Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.

Overhang

Overhanging, usually involving roofs.

Powerful

Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.

Slab

Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.

Steep

Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y

Technical

Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.

Vert

General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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