From the Sentinel Car Park walk toward the chain ladders for c45min. As soon as you round the North Spur you will look up at the (Angus Lepan) gully between the Gendarme (left Skyline) and Sentinel. Leave the path at an appropriate point to ascend the grass slope and then the gully.

Continue c80m up the gully to a prominent leftward tending grass ledge. Walk left along this ledge (exiting the gully) until the exposed ridge line is reached.

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Either continue up Angus Lepan and then

• Descend MCM via rappel
• Descend the Standard route

Or

• Descend the gully between Gendarme & Sentinel. A fixed abseil point is in situ just above the 1st pitch of ALP (this is low in the gully, not far above where you exited left on the grassy ledge

Once on the ridge, stance at the bace of a distinctive little tower/gendarme.

1. 20m (5a): Climb the easy slabs for 8 metres till a big ledge is reached with two cracks on the right side. Climb the right most crack for 3 metres, then move left over the top of the tower and down 1m to a small stance on the north side.
2. 25m (4b): Climb down into the col between the gendarme and the rest of the ridge, making a tricky move left and down onto a sloping slab. Climb the slab past a piton. Climb easily up for 15m until a piton in an open book. Climb the open book for 2 metres onto the flat top.
   Note: The tricky move down onto the slab was aided on the first ascent.
   
   Walk 10 metres to the next step in the ridge.
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3. 15m (4b): Climb the short step, then move up to an overhanging 2m step. Pass this on the right, then move up to the crest of the ridge again.
   Piton belay in the ground next to a small cairn.
4. 20m (3-): Climb the ridge for 5m to where it steepens, then climb the recess with a Y-shaped crack and continue easily up to a platform.
5. 100m (3-): Scramble and climb along the ridge to the summit.

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