The top gets sandy if not climbed regularly.

French Connection

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1984
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Two meters left of Cobblestones, is a tall crack in a right-angled corner. 3m left is the start of Holy Mackerel.

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Cobblestone Gendarme

Route Description

1. 12m '17': The steep crack is difficult, the rock rough and sandy in places. The top section widens and overhangs.

2. 15m '17': Behind the ledge, a smooth wall leads to a dassie traverse, which Cobblestones takes to the cave. Above this traverse, step onto the face left of Holy Mackerel. A few small, but handy prongs are useful for draping slings on, prior to an awkward move up to a finger rail, which improves towards the left. Traverse left until able to grasp some flakes, edges and goosenecks near the corner. Climb these to the ledge.

3.   12m '19': This pitch is furious fun, or a frustrating grunt depending on body size. On the left is a semi-circular platform below the ceiling, with a thin crack splitting it. Crouch awkwardly to reach above the lip and pull around this. Continue up the crack and climb to a grassy platform.

Walk to the foot of the second chimney, below the huge vertical white wall. A short, scruffy black rock section blocks the bottom.

4.   12m '14': This section of black water-worn runnels in sandy rock, is climbed using a layback edge to the overhang. Step left onto a bushy platform in a gully. Climb a black groove to the ledge below the vague break up the white cliff. (The first half of this pitch is shared with Gangplank.)

5.    20m '19': Start on some jug holds on the left end of the narrow ledge. Step up to a small overhang. A shallow handrail goes right and can be used to get into a groove leading up to a brown flake. Alternatively one can step up high and layaway to stand up to the handrail. Using the brown flake up above, step left onto the face. Two thin finger troughs and minute foot grips are all there is to edge across until a difficult reach up gets the fingers into a little black hole on the side of a flake. Use a higher flake, and a little pillar on the right, to climb the wall to the ledge.

6.   5m '12': Around the corner on the left, scramble up to the escape ledges.

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Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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