This composite route takes two long pitches. The first pitch of Touch and Go and the second of Magnetic Wall. Easier and more direct than Triple Indirect.

Double Direct

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FA:
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1961
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

As for Touch and Go

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Magnetic Wall Sector

Route Description

1.  35m '17': Walkright a few meters on the ledge until forced to swing up to a rail and further right still onto a semi-circularsloping ledge. Rail right at the end until you are at the base of a verticalcrack. Pull up into this until able to stand. Continueto a ledge. Step slightly left and up onto a rounded rib, afew moves up will gain a ledge. Step slightlyright until able to layaway up the slanting flake, step back left untilface holds lead you to theledge above, under the roof.

2. 40m '19': Crawl up from the left-hand end of the ledge to standon a large block around the corner.Climb up two meters to the higherrail and rail back right to the arete. Continue around the corner for about 2 meters (directly above the stance), climb virtuallystraight up the face, passing rails,to stance on the ledgeabove. A brilliant pitch!

The abseils are just to the left.

 

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Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

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H1

3-

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3+

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5.10d

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5.11d

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5.12c

5.12d

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5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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